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Tour Log: Lampang 31 January/1 February, Pai 2/3 February, Mae Hong Son 4-6 February
Mae Sariang 7 Febuary, Mae Sot 8 February, Kampaeng Phet 9/10 February
Thursday 7 February 2013 (1+1 nights)

Another orange bus……..After I’ve been to the market for something to have with my coffee I need to return the motorbike. I’m hoping to be at the bus terminal by 10.30 am. I’m presently back to my original plan which went off course with my unscheduled two-day stop in Pai. One day has been recovered after my planned four-night stay in Mae Hong Son was reduced to three. The other day may simply be tacked on the end. Somewhat surprisingly I’m well within my budget and this tour could be extended to 11 or 12 days but right now I’m heading back south, first stop Mae Sariang. The lady at Jongkhem Place orders transport and I’m soon in the bus terminal. I’m expecting the departure of an air-conditioned bus for the 4 hour trip south but all I see is an orange bus albeit a long wheelbase version similar to the one that brought me here. Well this older style vehicle does apparently have air conditioning and if I want to depart now this is the only one for a while. The more modern tour buses don’t depart until the afternoon on the long-haul 16 hour journey to Bangkok via Chiang Mai. As I climb onboard, thankfully the bus is nowhere near full. It’s soon on its way along the 108 the direction of Mae Sariang. The journey through the mountains this time is less of a challenge and with a feeling of anti-climax I manage to get some sleep.
Pangsariang……..On arriving at a small square in Mae Sariang which serves as the bus station, I am directed to the riverside one block away where a few guesthouses and hotels are located. I’m actually looking for a guesthouse named Salawan after a river in the area but nobody seems to know where it is so it’s back to drawing board. I enquire at the Riverside Resort set back near the river Yuam which is out of my price-range but immediately in front of that is an older style guesthouse that doesn’t appear too inviting but I’m offered this well below budget. It actually ticks all the boxes except two which are really non-essential to me. The room is fan only and there is no refrigerator otherwise the hot shower, en-suit bathroom, TV and wifi are all I need. This family run guesthouse also has a coffee shop and space outside for a couple of tables and to cook take-away food. It is also popular with the children who come for ice-cream. It will be fine as a stopover. Finally I’ve cracked the mystery of Salawan Guesthouse. This is it! They’ve changed the name.
Mae Sariang……..Arriving in mid afternoon I still have time to wander around this small town. Given its size it is well represented with temples in Burmese and Thai Yai style. Despite its modest size, there are still activities for tourists, including trekking in Salawin and Mae Ngao National Parks, rafting and even off-road biking. Add these to the temples, rivers and waterfalls and there is ample reason to spend a while here. The few temples I visited are:-
Wat Jong Soong (Wat Uttayarnyom)……..Wat Jong Soong features two white Mon-style pagodas along with a very beautiful Burmese-style wiharn.
Wat Mandalay……..Wat Mandalay also features strong Burmese influences with most if the inscriptions in Burmese.
Wat Sri Boonruang……..Wat Sri Boonruang is opposite Wat Mandalay and features a beautiful Shan-style wiharn with superb wood carving. This temple also has a mural painting of Lord Buddha’s life. The viharn contains a large Buddha image in Thai Yai style but in front of this has recently been added a jade Buddha image from Myanmar.

Wat Suwannarangsri (formerly Wat Jongkham)……..Wat Suwannarangsri is a working temple near the river and a training school for young monks. There is a platform here offering excellent views across the river Yuam with a beautiful sunset around 6 pm. With the cool of the evening approaching an aerobics class begins.
This just scratches the surface. A good website I found is provided by GT Rider. For the evening meal I stayed at the guesthouse, Thai food cooked by the family. However this was unlikely to be the cause of a bout of diarrhea I had that night.

Friday 8th February.

Mae Sariang to Mae Sot……..In planning this tour it was clear the mountains of northwest Thailand would dominate it. For most it would probably be sufficient to do the Mae Hong Son loop of 614 kilometres but I’m now extending that with another long journey south into Tak province. This will again take me through the mountains, first along the course of the Yuam river then into Tak province at Mae Ngao National Park then along the Ngao river valley, an area sparsely populated. Inside Tak province some of the roads are passable with care as far as the Salawan river and the border with Myanmar. Thereafter the highway is good. Work is currently underway upgrading the worst sections of road. Finally the route enters the wide Moei river valley and into Mae Sot.
Local transport, more than 230 kilometres……..I am aware beforehand, there is only one form of transport, the versatile songtheaw pick-up truck, but operating primarily is a local service. I’m about to make a six and a half hour ‘local’ journey. That should be fun, especially with my diarrhea still not clear. The guesthouse does provide a breakfast and coffee which I consume with some reservation then walk on up to the bus station. The songtheaw is waiting but departs at 10.45 am, 15 minutes later than scheduled. There are only five passengers onboard. That will increase steadily throughout the trip south. Certainly there will be a number of characters coming and going much as it does on the Ordinary train service. It turns out that a number of these are from Myanmar and to check they have the correct ID there are frequent police checks-points. Illegal entry into Thailand is a problem especially on the borders with Myanmar and Cambodia. As time passes the villages pass by one by one and I engage with some of the children onboard offering them cake and snacks. Eventually the songtheaw reaches the suburbs of Mae Sot then into the local bus station in the town.
Amusement at First Hotel……..At the local bus station I’m disappointed to find my selected accommodation for the night is on the wrong side of town otherwise I could have been dropped off nearby. As I normally try to resist hiring transport to selected locations I decide to look around the town. A central location in a larger town is not what I prefer either but it’s been a long trip today. Soon I am directed to a hotel that is hard to describe in one word. I’d best describe it as a building site! However I’m told that the interior has been renovated. I thought I’d take a look and I’m not sure renovation is the right word but it sure is a big surprise. As I enter the reception area it’s absolutely crammed with antique furniture and contemporary wood carvings that indicate that at one time this was state of the art and probably the most lavishly decorated building for miles around. I am offered a room on the first floor but am told that for a little extra I can have a full suite on the ground floor. It's just a little over my budget. The wonders just continue coming with wood carvings and murals in every passageway. In the suite, I’m offered, I just rub my eyes in amazement at the polished hardwood furniture, even the headboard above the bed if richly carved depicting a wide range of natural subjects. On the face of it, amid this great spectacle, the management has added modern appliances, furniture and fittings. I’m beginning to wonder if there is a catch here.
Well there is! As I settle down to write my notes still not having come to terms with my surroundings there is a sudden rushing sound. Have I dosed off dreaming about the waterfalls I recently visited? No I’m still wide awake. The sound seems to be coming from the bathroom. I go and investigate and I was right first time. It is a waterfall, coming right out of the sink and flooding the beautifully marbled floor. I call the reception and for a while frantic efforts are being made to fix the problem. But it’s useless! It’s a job for tomorrow. I’m given another room and offered an adjustment to the price. I’m more amused than inconvenienced because I understand the owner is doing his best to grapple with ages of neglect to restore this old building. I’m still not totally sure what’s going on but the outer shell of the building look like a ruin. I also hope the new owner has evaluated the work correctly. In my experience it is often better to demolish a building such at this and start afresh. To be honest there is so much value in the wood furnishings and carvings they would be better off on show perhaps in a museum rather than a hotel. I noticed outside there is even a workshop for restoring and reconstructing these valuable pieces.
My original travel plan included at least two nights in Mae Sot before returning to Bangkok. But this is to be my only night in First Hotel and Mae Sot and not necessarily because of any particular dislike or inconvenience.

Saturday 9th February

Bitten by a snake……..Considering the antics of the previous night I’ve slept very well. I hardly know its daylight owing to the heavy drapes on the window. I wander down to reception for a coffee but I consume little else. The morning will be busy. The owner still seems concerned, even apologetic but whether I stay here another night is down to circumstance beyond his or my control. Last night I failed to locate a motorbike rental shop. Securing independent transport is key to my continued stay in Mae Sot. I wander off in a direction suggested to me but find this dealership closed. Undeterred I seek another, then another. I’ve reached one of the city temples, Wat Mani Phraison, and allocate 10 minutes for photographs but time is ticking on. It’s near 10 am as I wander further away from First Hotel. Finally I do spot a dealership that seems to be open but I’m in for bad news. An event I’m already aware of, in fact had even considered in the planning of this trip, is about to determine plans for the remainder of this tour. I’m referring to ‘Trook Geen’, Chinese New Year (the year of the SNAKE). It should not be underestimated the effect that this has in some areas of Thailand. Much of the business and commerce particularly in a border town such as Mae Sot is run by Thai/Chinese who follow their traditions. Today is the Chinese New Year’s Eve and I cannot find an outlet that will rent me a motorbike for love nor money. I have some quick thinking to do! Without a motorbike I’m restricted within the city area and Mae Sot Town does not have too many attractions for tourists. It is simply a busy border town. I still have, however, one option to fall back onto. The question is shall I burn my ace card now or trek back to First Hotel? I decide to trump. It will pay me back big time later as it turns out.
Thai/Myanmar Friendship Bridge……..The Thai/Myanmar Friendship Bridge reopened in 2011 after it had been closed over a border dispute, one of many disagreements between Thailand and Myanmar. This has helped Mae Sot open a trading link once more. If I can get to the bridge and back before midday check-out then my options improve dramatically. Nearby is a motorbike taxi station and I know that the bridge is just 7 kilometres away. I agree a fee and I’m off to the bridge. The border crossing point attracts a number of foreigners who generally are there out of curiosity and to visit Talat Rim Meoi (border market). Tourists interested in visiting Myawadi in Myanmar (just across Maenam Moei) can take boats from this market. I move right up to the border post and note the usual offering of cigarettes, whisky and pornographic material, all of suspect quality, under the watchful eyes of Thai border police. Foreigners here are well advised to take special care of their belongings. I do, in fact, buy something at Talat Rim Moei but its only snacks for the afternoon. By this time I’ve already decided where I’m heading later and it’s nowhere near Mae Sot. The route back into town is much more straightforward as there is a regular shuttle service from across the border, Burmese shoppers eager to stock up in local supermarkets. I’m soon back in town.
Minivan v Songtheaw……..I’m dropped off literally 100 yards from one of the more important temples in Mae Sot, Wat Chumphon Kiri. Its 11.45 am with just enough time for me to register a visit. I’ve squeezed the last possible drop of juice out of this lemon. First Hotel is just around the corner. I make it there with a couple of minutes to spare concerned that the staff may think I’m not checking out. I grab my kit and head off back to the local bus station in the town, stopping on the way for lunch. At the square there are only minivans departing on a regular basis and after 30 minutes one of them is departing with me onboard. It’s heading for Tak, 70 kilometres away. My general dislike for minivans is based on the fact that they are clamped, full of 15 sweating bodies minimizing the effect of air-conditioning and invariably offering little space for luggage. This van ticks all these boxes. Its only major claim is that it’s quick. Not quick enough for me but by 2.30pm I’m in Tak bus station.
Rather surprisingly there is frantic activity to offer the arriving passengers onward travel. It’s far too frantic for my liking as I look for a toilet. With my blood pressure back to normal I look around for options and there right ahead is another songtheaw which is heading south to Kampaeng Phet. I’m in no mood to be packed into a sardine tin again and in no hurry either. It’s a good job. Apparently Thai people don’t worry about fish and the songtheaw service is struggling to find passengers. Fantastic! There will be plenty of space for me and my bag. The only problem with that is that the driver, hoping for more passengers is way out with his departure time. 90 minutes waiting in the bus station is not what I had in mind but around 4 pm the songtheaw departs with just four passengers. The roads hereabout are good and this converted pick up wastes no time as it approaches Kampaeng Phet around 5 pm.
BanPoh Garden House……..Pronounced Baan Paw, BanPoh Garden House is effectively a motel, the sort of place I was looking for in Mae Sot. This time I’m in luck. The Songtheaw driver knows where it is directly on the link road connecting the main highway (1) with Kampaeng Phet city. It is also convenient to the main bus terminal. I’m offered a room that ticks all the boxes including price. Even an American style breakfast is included. The building itself is new and the rooms clean and fresh. I settle up for the night despite the fact that it’s virtually certain I will stay for a second night. What’s in my mind is based on a thought that goes right back to the first day of the tour and my journey to Lampang. The motel is 2 kilometres from the city but it’s not far for me to walk to a nearby restaurant for dinner. All in all this day has ended far better than it started. I’m just so thankful I made it to the border today allowing a grand finale to this epic tour tomorrow. Today’s excursions included:-
Wat Mani Phraison……..Wat Mani Phraison is an old temple in the town of Mae Sot. The main attraction is the ‘Sampuhutthe’ Chedi which is surrounded with 233 smaller pagodas, containing Buddha images. In the temple compound there is also a public sauna with traditional herbs.
Talad Rim Moei……..Situated on the bank of Maenam Moei (Moei River), Talad Rim Moei is a place where local products and precious stones such as jade and garnet from Myanmar are available. Also available are products from China particularly electrical goods.
Wat Chumphon Kiri……..Wat Chumphon Kiri is located in the centre of Mae Sot. In the temple compound stands a large golden pagoda, which is a replica of the Shwedagon Pagoda in Burma. 20 satellite pagodas surround the main one, which contains sacred images.