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Tour Log: Lampang 31 January/1 February, Pai 2/3 February, Mae Hong Son 4-6 February
Mae Sariang 7 Febuary, Mae Sot 8 February, Kampaeng Phet 9/10 February
Monday 4 February 2013 (3 nights)

Orange bus with a big heart……..I give back the Honda and head back to Palm House to get my bag. It’s now 10.30 am as I head for the parking lot that houses transport out of Pai. I was told that the one and only bus to Mae Hong Son leaves at 11 am but I would have to take my chances whether there will be space. The option of taking a minivan would depend on seats being available on any through van from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son but I soon discover these are invariably full. I really have no option but to hope for the best. The bus expected at 11 am doesn’t arrive till 11.45 am by which time I have already been advised this is not a service one can compare with the long-haul tour buses of the type that delivered me to Lampang. Still common throughout Thailand the short wheelbase orange buses which one would normally turn down in preference to all other forms of transport becomes the only type available for what’s going to be an epic 4 hour trip through arguably the most difficult route in Thailand. During the best part of this time the old bus will have covered a staggering 110 kilometres along the infamous route 1095.
Before that there is a mad scramble for seats and a great deal of confusion as some passengers who are using Pai as a rest stop return to find their seat occupied. In the end this ancient machine crawls out of Pai with several passengers standing in the aisle clinging to the roof rail. They will need to hang on tight. I am most grateful to a young lady who gave up her seat for me or those passengers would include me. The orange bus soon ascends into the mountains most of the first half of the journey spent in the ascent to Doi Giew Lom. Mercifully the vehicle reaches the summit descending to a rest stop at Soppong. It is here that a number of local passengers terminate their journeys easing the pressure for space. Oddly, by the time the orange bus reaches Mae Hong Son there are few passengers left. It is a simple fact that normally few tourists break their journey in Pai. They either visit Pai as an excursion out of Chiang Mai and return or if they wish to visit Mae Hong Son they take another route, easier to negotiate.
Jongkham Place……..Arrival in Mae Hong Son is at a reasonable time before 4 pm. On this occasion I was able to do more research beforehand but again did not reserve a room so it still required a little footslogging but with an earlier arrival and without too much problem with finding vacancies I settled for an individual rustic chalet bungalow at Jongkham Place finding the lady owner most pleasant and helpful. I decide to stay for three nights. Suitable freshened up I look for a dinner enquiring at a motorbike rental shop on the way. It seems my plans for tomorrow are already taking shape but I’m not quite so satisfied with the food at a restaurant near the lake however picturesque it might be. It’s a curious fact that the more expensive looking the restaurant the less tasty is the food or so it seems. In general street food is tasty, filling and cheap and remains popular with many tourists remembering that this is also traditionally on the backpacker’s trail. After another grueling journey through the mountains I’m simply too tired to write my notes. That’s it I’m done!

Tuesday 5th February!

Back on two wheels……..The owner has kindly lent me a kettle and provided coffee which together with snacks left over from yesterday’s travels forms my breakfast. I promised myself an easier day today to arrange some washing and to concentrate on bringing my notes up to date. The day has started misty as it frequently does here but soon the sun will burn that off. At the front of the guesthouse is a covered terrace with table and chairs; perfect for working on my computer. As time ticks on towards midday I venture down into the town to arrange to rent a motorbike. The shop here has a good selection but they are mostly older machines. The one I select certainly isn’t the best runner but at 150 baht/day I can’t complain. That’s cheap and for the first time that I can remember they don’t ask for money up front but, of course, they retain my passport. That arranged it’s time for lunch. One of the big advantages of independent transport is the choice it offers to stop anywhere you choose. That invariable gives you options and helps with the budget. I fill myself with two plates of rice for 40 baht. My next stop is the bus terminal which is a little way from town. Unlike Pai, Mae Hong Son has a proper terminal. It has to be remembered that Mae Hong Son has a bus service directly to Bangkok via Chiang Mai using the southern route via Mae Sariang which is my next intended destination. However while Bangkok is 16 hours from here, Mae Sarieng is just 4 hours away. I’m not ready to return just yet and certainly don’t need 16 hours on a coach.
In search of fish……..As with Pai I have obtained various local maps and also searched online. Mae Hong Son itself has a number of attractions mostly based on its regional architecture but as I exit the bus station it seems I am in search of fish. Outside Mae Hong Son just about every road leads into the mountains which have a wealth of natural features from waterfalls to mountain views and the impressive Pai river. Hill tribe villages occupy this sparsely populated area. Mae Hong Son is fortunate to have a by-pass and I use this to skirt around to the north and link up with the main road 1095 back to Pai. After the best part of 30 minutes I reach the Fish Cave, one of the attractions listed on the map but not before a coffee. By now I’ve already experience this provinces mountain roads and switch-back curves and now find myself gazing into a small fertile valley on the brim of which I park and sit admiring the view. In no rush I finally make my way to the Fish Cave only to find there is an admission fee which yet again discriminates against foreigners. I decline entry, considering fish is best viewed on a plate. However at my next stop I will see plenty of fish.
I turn back past the coffee shop and leave the 1095 to link up with a mountain road which terminates deep in the mountains near the border with Myanmar. My destination is Pa-Sau Waterfall. The climb up into the mountains tests this older machine but on arrival I find there is no admission fee and the falls just a short walk from the visitor centre. On entry you are welcome to purchase fish food which is eagerly consumed by resident carp at the base of the falls. Certainly this location offers some respite from the strong sun and coffee is available in the visitor centre. From Pa-Sau Waterfall the road continues into the mountains but I’m told becomes difficult for a motorbike of the type I’m using. It’s nearly 4 pm and about 28 kilometres from Mae Hong Son so I’m not inclined to progress further. Briefly this road leads to a Chinese village at Meo Aw and Meo Pang-Tong Karen village. I understand that entry to long-neck villages is 250 baht but free for Thais. This crazy situation is also a deterrent. Also along this road is a Royal Palace only occasionally in use. OK I need to head back to Mae Hong Son.
Covered in mud……..I return a different way following the signs to the Mud Spa. Located 10 kilometres north of Mae Hong Son this spa resort is known as the Phuklon Country Club. Curious, I stop to check it out. I learnt that a mud source had been discovered in a farmer’s field as recently as 1995 and a few years’ later tests revealed that the mud contained minerals that had a therapeutic effect, good for the skin and blood circulation. The spa offered a facial mask, body mask and a mineral bath as well as traditional Thai massage. The staff was keen to offer a service but I was not pressured to accept. However when offered a bath in warm mineral water at just 60 baht I thought I’d give that a go rather than have a mud facial. Hot water was pumped directly to the bath house from the hot spring, the temperature controlled by adding cold water. The recommended exposure to the spring water is ten minutes and this odd experience effectively wrapped up the day. I returned to the lakeside and ate traditional Thai food sat on a mat in front of a low table positioned on the pavement which was surprisingly warm after the hot sun of the day then back to Jongkham Place.

Wednesday 6th February

In search of long necks……..Today starts with a visit to the minimart then back for coffee and to update my travel log. It’s nearer to 11 am before I get going but today I shall start easy with a visit to Wat Chong Kham and Wat Chong Klang beside the lake in Mae Hong Son, the motorbike not really necessary. Then after lunch on the main road, it’s up to Wat Phrathat Doi Kong Mu and Wat Phra Nan each of these temples of religious and historical importance, the former offering excellent views across the city and airport. From here it’s short way to the Phaya Singhanatracha Memorial but it’s rather hot again so time for a drink as I head out of the city in search of long-necks. These are Karen hill-tribe people located at Ban Huai Shuathao. From here I cut back and link with the main route 108 south of Mae Hong Son. Further along this road is Ban Pa Bong and yet another hot spring. Finally I end the day’s travel at the viewpoint further up the valley and stop for a coffee but its late afternoon and I prefer to be off the mountain roads before dark. I make my way back to Mae Hong Son 17 kilometres away. On the way back near where I stopped for a drink earlier I stop for dinner known as ‘moo yang gowlee’, really a Korean style BBQ which is offered in buffet style. I must get back to Jongkham Place to make further plans as regrettably this is my last full day in Mae Hong Son but not in Mae Hong Son province. Meanwhile the day’s excursions follow in more detail.
Wat Chong Kham……..Wat Chong Kham is an old temple on the bank of the swamp Nong Chong Kham. It was built in 1927 by Thai Yai artisans. The pillars are gilded in golden flakes. The temple houses a large Buddha statue with a lap width of 4.85 metres cast by Burmese craftsmen. Another statue is a replica of the Buddha image in Wat Suthat in Bangkok.
Wat Chong Klang ……..Wat Chong Klang, next to Wat Chong Kham, is a temple where a replica of the Phra Phutta Sihing is installed on an altar. There are several interesting items such as wooden figurines of humans and animals depicted in the Phra Vejsandon Jakata (pronounced Chadok, which means one of odd stories of former incarnations of the Buddha) created by Burmese craftsmen and brought over in 1857, painted on glass about the Jakata and on Prince Siddhartha, as well as on the ways of life of the time. The captions are in Burmese. There are also notations that the paintings were by Thai Yai artisans from Mandalay.
Wat Phrathat Doi Kong Mu……..Wat Phrathat Doi Kong Mu, erected by the first governor of Mae Hong Son, is a temple reflecting strong Burmese influence. The main features of this temple are the two lavishly decorated pagodas known to contain relics. Visitors to this temple enjoy magnificent views of the city, mountains and valleys.
Wat Phra Non……..Wat Phra Non at the foot of Doi Kong Mu houses a 12-metre long reclining Buddha image in Thai Yai style. The image was cast in 1875 by Phranang Miah, the wife of Phaya Singhanatracha, the first governor of Mae Hong Son province. Another main feature of the temple is the two large sculptured lions lying side by side at the foot of a long stairway presumably providing passage to those ascending to pay homage to the Holy Relic on the hill at a time, I guess, before the roadway was built. This temple also has a small museum. While most of the objects are religious the monarchy is well represented. Curiously there is a small section of international objects which seem out of place. There are a couple of antique clocks from Europe and even a bed warmer marked ‘Old Fulham Pottery’. A few objects from the Japanese occupation also are displayed including a helmet and tunic. Interesting!
Phaya Singhanatracha Memorial……..The Phaya Singhanatracha Memorial is situated at the foot of Doi Kong Mu and commemorates the first governor of Mae Hong Son. Phaya Singhanatracha was a Thai Yai native from Burma (Myanmar). He was originally the governor of Khun Yuam Town south of Mae Hong Son but later was officially installed as the governor of Mae Hong Son by the then King of Lanna in 1874.
Ban Huai Shuathao (Karen) Kaw Yao (long-neck village)……..This village is at the head of a valley serviced by a road leading off the highway 108 south of Mae Hong Son some 30 minutes away. The road crosses a number of water courses only by fords. Although easily crossed care should be taken at these fords due to the slippery surface. The road leads to just one of the Long-Nek villages and for each there is a tax for foreign visitors of 250 baht. On arrival foreigners are handed a factsheet which explains the reason for the tax. It reads:-
The Paduang (Kayan/Karenni long-necked tribe) are refugees who have been setting (have settled) in Thailand for over 20 years due to political situations in their country, Burma. Since they are refugees they can’t work legally in this country.
If you are interested in seeing them, please give entrance fee of 250 baht per person at the Tourist Service Center. This fee supports their daily needs such as food (rice and curry), medical treatment, children’s’ education, development of their village, and other extra needs.
Originally they were farmers in Burma. They had their own houses, villages and farms and stayed this way peacefully. However, due to the military government power in this (the) year 1988 to this day, people in the ethnic areas were tortured, suffered from violations of human rights, forced labor, forced relocations; porters to carry the troops’ loads when they fought against the ethnic guerillas. In 1948 Burma gained it’s independence from England-the civil war still exists.
If you suspect to give or support with the entrance fee to them, you can ask anywhere to the tourist services.
Thanks a lot for your kind payment……MAY YOU HAVE A GOOD TRIP……In-charge Huay Seau Thao.
Editor’s note: This is an emotive appeal to foreign tourists who are asked to burden the responsibility for these people not forgetting that their own governments are already supporting refugees from many nations. There is evidence that the Thai Royal House is supportive of initiatives such as irrigation but little is forthcoming directly from the Thai government. In fact Thai people can freely enter these villages: After all it is Thai land. I added this comment meant to be thought provoking rather than in judgment but thankfully when I visited, village children were returning from school and I was told there were medical facilities in the village. The Long-Neks busied themselves in producing goods for sale to tourists and I saw no evidence of real poverty. I should leave it at that.
Ban Pa Bong Hot Spring……..Returning down the valley I crossed the Pai river which houses a boat landing. Boats can be hired for a slow but scenic transit to the villages but I’m off in the direction of Ban Pa Bong. This village houses a hot spring. Here various options for massage and bathing in the Spa water exist. The hot spring is situated at the centre of the complex. You can sample the effect of hot spring water simply by immersing your feet in an overflow channel. The water is so hot it would be fatal if you fell in the spring itself. Well worth a foot bath though if you can bare it.
Ban Pa Bong Viewpoint……..From the village the road winds up a mountain pass, an interesting pull for any vehicle. Near the summit is a rest stop with toilets and a coffee shop. The views up to a small valley opposite and the small dam in the river below makes a break here most worthwhile.