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Tour Log: Lampang 31 January/1 February, Pai 2/3 February, Mae Hong Son 4-6 February
Mae Sariang 7 Febuary, Mae Sot 8 February, Kampaeng Phet 9/10 February
Thursday 31 January 2013 (2 nights)

Bangkok exit……..I awake at 5.30am to the patter of rain and make final preparations for travel. I’m hoping to arrive at Mochit 2, Bangkok’s northern bus terminal by 9am. The most cost effective method is by songtheaw and city bus but a quicker method is by motorcycle taxi and minivan or even better by taxi. However on account of the rain suitable transport to get me started is in short supply. While considering my options, a neighbour on a school run offers me a lift. That’s a great help to get me going but initial progress is slow due to heavy traffic. I wonder whether I can make it by 9am as planned to the terminal as I transfer to a taxi. However at 8.45 I’m outside the booking hall. It’s still the best option, I feel, to just turn up. The information online is often confusing and misleading. With the various bus tour operators eager for business there are choices. I soon decide on the Chantour service to Chaing Mai scheduled for a 09.15 departure. I’m not disappointed. The 32 seat air-conditioned tour bus described as 1st Class has plenty of leg-room, an entertainment system, onboard snacks and meal vouchers. The seats are comfortable with a seatback message system. From the high-deck I should get good views as the tour bus makes its way north. The actual departure time is 09.30 and expected arrival time at Lampang is 17.30. I’m soon writing notes on my netbook in a quite relaxed mood.
The journey north……..The journey is uneventful but the time passes quickly. The Chantour bus takes the usual route north out of Mochit 2 bus terminal along Vipawadee/Rangsit highway towards the Bang Pa-In intersection and along highway 32 towards Ayutthaya before joining highway 1. Around 1 pm, between Nakhon Sawan and Kampeang Phet there is a rest break for 20 minutes. The food voucher covers noodle soup for 30 baht but rice meals are more; I paid an extra 10 baht but it was enough till dinner. As the coach makes its way north I keep a mental note of some of the tourist attractions on the way, in particular the historic town of Kampeang Phet which rivals Lopburi, a trip I made only last week. Other attractions caught my eye including the bird park at Chai Nat. I must admit Thailand does manage to keep its religious, cultural and historical locations together with its national parks well signposted. By mid afternoon I’ve managed some sleep but am awakened by the sound of rain beating on the coach roof. By this time the coach is nearing Tak. From here it becomes more mountainous but progress is good and as the final kilometers count down the Chantour service arrives before time in Lampang at 17.20.
Lampang arrival……..Information I collected in Bangkok now becomes useful. I am looking for a guesthouse not too far from the train station in the western part of Lampang just off Montri Road but there is a problem. The coach driver has already explained that he will not be entering Lampang itself as this is a Chiang Mai service. They will drop me off at the intersection outside the town to avoid what they say in Thai as ‘sia wahla’ which means wasted time. However help is just a phone call away, a sort of phone a friend. Not only am I offered a lift to the guesthouse but offered transport the following afternoon to go sightseeing in Lampang. This is not the first time in northern Thailand a family has offered to give up their time, a welcome release from the daily ‘grind’ I suppose. By the end of the day the friendly disposition of folk in the north is evident everywhere.
In Town Home……... My journey to my accommodation takes me past Lampang train station and the busy street-food stalls opposite but I arrive at In Town Home just a few minutes away. I arrive at a cozy rustic-style guesthouse away from the main street and it seems to have everything I need and reasonably priced at 400 baht. Just one thing however is missing. There is no wifi connection. It’s not sufficient for me not to give this accommodation a rating and I am happy to stay for two nights
Ending on a high note……..My attention turns to food and I waste no time in heading back towards the train station where there will be l have a good selection of local fare. Inevitably I head for the train station first. Lampang, of course, is on the main line between Bangkok and Chiang Mai. It accommodates a small locomotive depot but through trains can be observed. I am more than happy with my new digital camera as it has managed to capture acceptable images after dark under station lights. The last train to Bangkok arrives and passengers, well represented by foreigners, climb onboard. An upline train also arrives amid some activity. It appears that am elderly passenger is unwell and requires medical assistance. It is reassuring to see an ambulance arrive within 10 minutes. The vehicle is well staffed and this case is dealt with most efficiently as the elderly lady is rushed to hospital. Well satisfied with my visit if only to make a plan for my later departure from here to Chaing Mai, I am finally ready for a chicken grill and a beer. This collection of food stalls near the station conveys a particularly homely atmosphere and as I witness the folk here are particularly friendly. One feels at home almost immediately. Altogether not a bad day.
Friday 1st February
Lampang overstay……..The first thing I noticed this morning is the cool air in Lampang much more comfortable than in Bangkok as I venture out to get a breakfast. There is not too much in the way of western style restaurants here but there is a wide range of Asian food besides more northern Thai style menus. I take pork and rice and a specialty desert but so as to not waste an opportunity I again visit the railway station to witness the connection of an extra locomotive for a service to Chiang Mai over the difficult mountain section. Satisfied with that I return to the guesthouse with a takeaway lunch. From here I am expecting transport for the afternoon sightseeing.
Not at the races……..The transport I was promised arrives just after 2pm and I will have a couple of hours to visit Wat Phra That Lampang Luang which is the main tourist attraction in the area. I am most fortunate since hiring the usual songtheaw would have proved expensive as this temple complex is 20 minutes or so outside the city. The temple is unassuming and signage apart from in the museum is in Thai only. Entry is free but donations are encouraged as this temple still functions in it's own right. Outside the temple complex are the usual souvenir stalls but in addition a row of richly decorated horse-drawn carriages await custom; another of Lampang’s attractions.
Wat Phra That Lampang Luang ........Wat Phra That Lampang Luang (Temple of Lampang’s Great Buddhist Relic) is an early Lanna-style (Northern Thai) Buddhist temple, possibly the oldest religious structure in existence today in Thailand. Locally known as Wat Lampang Luang, this temple complex is located in Ampur Ko Kha, 20 kilometres west of Lampang.
The fame of the temple, and its preservation throughout the centuries is mainly due to the belief that Buddha once visited here about 2,500 years ago and donated a lock of his hair, which is now enshrined in the temple’s chedi.
The temple itself is built on a mound, the site of an eighth century fortification, called a wiang, that guarded the routes to the feudal city of Lampang. The Viharn Nam Tam structure of this temple complex is believed to be the oldest surviving wooden religious building in Thailand dating back to the 16th century. The main gate of the temple was constructed in the late 15th century.
A pair of guardian lions and a steep naga stairway lead up to the impressive entrance gate. The main prayer hall, Viharn Luang, stands close inside the main entrance. At the back of the Viharn Luang sits a massive gilded ku (throne) sheltering the main Buddha image, known as the Phra Chao Lang Thong, cast in 1563. On either side of the Ku are throne-like pulpits, sometimes used by monks but more often used to house other Buddha images on important ceremonial days. Behind the main prayer hall stands the 45 meter tall chedi. The chedi was originally decorated with copper and bronze sheets. Over the centuries, these have oxidized into a variety of green and blue shades.
Flanking the chedi on the south side is another prayer hall known as the Viharn Phra Phut, a small chapel built in 1802 with a beautifully carved fascade. Behind the Viharn Phar Phut is a tiny tower-like structure, the Ho Phra Phuttabat that houses a Buddha footprint sculpture. This building is generally open only on important festival dates and may never be entered by women!
The two museums are of some interest. One houses the Phra Kaeo Don Tao, a supposed 'copy' of the Emerald Buddha and made at the same time. But does not compare with the subtlety of the Emerald Buddha in Chiang Rai, and the setting doesn't do it justice. However, there is a wonderful 400 year old scripture library and a display of local pottery, utensils and even weapons.In the sand covered yard stands an old Bhodi tree preserved with help of supports.
Nakhon Lampang……..Lampang city itself does not support mass tourism in the same way as its neighbour Chiang Mai and most tourists visit the city on a group tour. However Central Plaza does support western style food restaurants and the usual hypermarkets and department stores can be found in the city. I ask to be dropped off in the city just to have a look around. From the clock-tower I venture down to the Wong River past a new temple construction richly decorated in white with mirrored tiles curiously named Wat Chiang Rai then back to the park area where I take a songtheaw back to the guesthouse about 3 kilometres away. In the evening I again wander to the train station really only to have dinner, this time a pork soup with a draught beer. By now there are few foreigners about; most have departed by train now. I’ve enjoyed the Lampang experience and appreciated those who've opened to me in a warm and friendly way but tomorrow I intend to continue my journey north.