Laos, Khammouane, Borikhanxai, Xieng Khouane, Vientiane

MARCHES PAST TOUR SUMMARY LAOS FOUR PROVINCE TOUR - 25 February to 14 March 2014 PHONSAVAN, XIENG KHOUANG, LAOS (Part 3), 2-7 March

9 years of bombing, MAG visitor centre, Phonsavan

Phonsavan.......Phonsavan is the provincial capital of Xieng Khouang province. The new town built in the late 1970s replaced the old Xieng Khouang which was destroyed during the Second Indochina War. Representing pre-history the nearby Plain of Jars has been nominated as a UNESCO site of special interest. The climate on the plateau is pleasant all year around, although it can become pretty cold during winter nights (altitude 1100m). The long winding main street of Phonsavan looks like something from a Spaghetti Western minus the tumbleweeds. As soon as you leave town the countryside is dominated by green hills. Hmong cowboys with brown and violet cowboy hats complete the scene. There are even bullfights in Phonsavan during New Year. The main economic activity in Phonsavan is based on government administration, mining companies from China and Australia, tourism and the work of NGOs related to UXO clearance. This latter activity relates to modern history and the Vietnam War which had a catastrophic effect on Xieng Khouang Province of Laos. Phonsavan is home to various ethnic groups, such as the Phuan, whose ancestors once founded the kingdom of the same name, the Hmong, which New Year’s celebrations in Xieng Khouang are famous throughout Laos, and the Khmu and Tai Dam. There is also a minority of Laotian Chinese and Vietnamese as well as some international workers and missionaries from Korea and the USA. Typical local products from Phonsavan and the surrounding area are natural dyes and textiles each with individual pattern depending on the ethnic group, basketry, mulberry paper umbrellas, spoons made from war scrap or Hmong embroidery. A special drink is Matsutake Whiskey made from Hed Wai, a highly valued mushroom from the pine forests of Xieng Khouang. For general information vist the Provincial Tourism Department near the market, Thalat Nam Ngum, on the road to the airport. xkgtourism@yahoo.com.

IN BRIEF
Plain of Jars

The Plain of Jars is a megalithic archaeological landscape in Laos consisting of thousands of megalithic jars scattered throughout the Xieng Khouang plateau, Xieng Khouang Province, Lao PDR. These stone jars appear in clusters, ranging from a single or a few to several hundred jars at lower levels surrounding a central plain and in some upland valleys.

Jar Site 2 Phonsavan

Jar Sites
Jar Site 1, Phonsavan

The Jar Sites are located on the Xieng Khouang Plateau at the northern end of the Annamese Cordillera, the principal mountain range of Indochina. The principal town on the plateau is Phonsavan, the base for visiting the three main jar sites; the closest involving a drive of about 20 minutes. Most visitors head for Jar site 1 where there is a visitor centre. The other two can only be approached via dirt tracks and are protected but usually deserted apart from the ticket seller. Other sites in the area can be reached from provincial towns such as Mueng Khoun or Meung Kham but many are largely inaccessible due to their location in remote areas not yet cleared of UXO (Unexploded Ordnance).
Historical Significance
The significance of the megalithic jars is still to be fully appreciated but a study in the 1930’s presumed that the jars were associated with burial practices based on finds recovered at the sites. The likely span of practice was about 1000 years during the Iron Age beginning around 500 BC. The Plain of Jars has the potential to shed light on the relationship between increasingly complex societies and megalithic structures and provide insight into social organisation of Iron Age Southeast Asia’s communities.
Site Visits
The jars sites would benefit from further research and understanding to be considered as potentially a UNESCO site of special historical interest thus bringing in new funding and allowing the area to be opened up to visitors. However the potential threat of UXO remains and some estimates reveal that it may be another 50 years before the area can be declared free from contamination. Inevitably the number of visitors to the plateau can be described as a trickle rather than a flood. Phonsavan is the provincial capital and at least has a few acceptable hotels available to guests although international cuisine is at a premium. But perhaps the most deterring aspect is the lack of an airport necessitating a grueling journey of some 8 hours from Vientiane through the tropical rain forests of Central Laos.

IN BRIEF
War in Laos 1964/74
The mystery surrounding the war as it affected Laos during the Second Indo China War, more popularly known as the Vietnam War, has taken time to unravel. After all Laos was never officially a target for the anti-communist coalition. The fact that very little information was released at the time and immediately after by the protagonists earned it the name ‘Secret War’ . When one engages the browser on modern search engines what immediately becomes apparent is the revelation from the archives of bombing missions over Laos. So a few stray bombs from fighter-bombers returning from their missions over Vietnam to their bases in Thailand accounted for that right? Well the latest research tells a different story. During the conflict, Laos was hopelessly divided between the Kingdom of Laos aligned to the USA and the communist Prathet Lao supporting the North Vietnamese and Viet Cong. Civil war was inevitable as both factions formed alliances to gain the initiative over the other. It would be the Prathet Lao that would prevail but not before an intense campaign to destroy their fighting capability was orchestrated. The consequences were catastrophic. Those bombing records reveal that Laos experienced more than 30,000 casualties during the bombings, more than 20,000 people have died since bombing ceased in 1974 due to leftover unexploded munitions, and many more tens of thousands were needlessly displaced. A UN report notes that Laos is per capita, the most bombed country on the planet, with .84 tons of explosives dropped per person from the years 1965 to 1974. At MAG HQ (Mines Advisory Group) who co-ordinate the safe disposal of UXO (unexploded ordnance) they project work for their technicians for another 50 years.

Itiniary……..For full report click on travel log
Day 1, Pakxan to Phonsavan (Laos)
Day 2, on tour - Phonsavan (Laos)
Day 3, on tour - Phonsavan-Plain of Jars (Laos)
Day 4, on tour - Phonsavan (Laos)
Day 5, on tour - Phonsavan-Muang Khoun (Laos)
Day 6, on tour - Phonsavan-Muang Kham (Laos)
Excursions.....(These were by rented motorbike or local transport-minibus, motorbike)
Phonsavan new city, Plain of Jars (3 sites), Russian tank, MAG visitor centre
Muang Khoun-Wat Piawat, old French hospital, That Foun/Opium garden
Muang Kham-Tham Piou
Accommodation……..
----Dok Khoun Hotel.....Aircon, wifi (not always in range), TV, fridge, hot shower. Rating, Acceptable apart from personnal service and general cleanliness, 100,000 kip, 2 nights.

----Golden Mountain Garden (Phoukham Resort).....Aircon, wifi (not always in range), TV, hot shower, breakfast, free shuttle service. Rating, Good, 100,000 kip, 4 nights.
Weather....... Hot and humid and hazy, generally a little cooler on the plateaux 25-30c
Dining out....... Phonsavan has no Western style fast food outlets or convenience stores. At least 30 restaurants offer Ethnic/Vietnamese/Chinese style cuisine with many Pho soup shops yet the town is large enough to support better class hotels and a few outlets serving foods more familier to westerners. An Indian restaurant (Nisha) was noted. I found a nice breakfast bar near the minibus station.
Transport used....... Pakxan to Phonsavan (6.5 hours), local minibus, 100,000 kip
Phonsavan to Mueng Kham, SWB bus 25,000 kip, return by minibus same price
motorbike to Tham Piou, 50,000 kip plus tip for guide
motorbike rental....... standard manual, 70,000 kip/day (daylight hours), second day 60,000 kip