Departure for Kanchanaburi
The weather again looks iffy. A thunderstorm arrived Sunday afternoon and raged well into the night. I awake at 6.30am with full options for the day but even though the rain has stopped I have discounted the option to make it to Sangkhlaburi by evening as I had planned. I am in no hurry. In Thailand getting anywhere more quickly invariably costs more. I don’t need to jam myself up in city traffic scrambling for a tour bus to Sangkhlaburi which occupies around 7 hours. The town lies on the western border with Myanmar and involves an arduous journey through mountain terrain. I’m taking an easier option. I’m heading for Kanchanaburi today. As such it is only featured here as an overnight stopover. My final destination can wait till tomorrow. A short tour to Kanchanaburi is featured elsewhere in the website.
Click here.
I’m on my way after 10am but choosing the slow bus I’m not in Mochit Mai (northern bus terminal) till midday. There’s a problem. I discover this terminal is not generally used for departures to Kanchanaburi. There is a 9.30am service but later services only depart from Sai Tai (southern bus terminal). I’m not prepared to waste any more time as Sai Thai bus terminal is too far from here. There is a minivan ready to leave Mochit Mai but it’s no secret I’m not a lover of this form of transport even though it will be quicker. I’ve lost options. If I had known this I could have headed for Victory Monument and saved and hour. Be that as it may I’m on my way feeling like a battery hen, not even getting a window seat. As we head northwest we follow the route of the Purple Line high-speed rail link out into Nonthaburi Province, an expensive project that has been under construction for some time. Other than this I’m totally bored, finally relieved to reach Kanchanaburi around 2.30pm. While it hasn’t rained yet the clouds look threatening over the nearby hills. On the plus side the driver points out a guesthouse in the city not far from the terminal and I can get off here.
Baanmafeung
This guesthouse is on the main road through Kanchanaburi and is convenient to the bus station. All being well I can get an early start in the morning. Kanchanaburi is a popular destination so I guess the 650 baht for an air-conditioned room with fridge, TV and hot shower is about right. It is convenient to shops and restaurants and I soon find a place to eat Thai food welcoming a late lunch. Returning to Baanmafeung for a rest I seem to have timed that right as a tropical storm descends on the town. That will be it until evening. At 6.30pm I stroll back towards the bus station and locate the night market offering all kinds of traditional food. I settle for kow moo dang (red pork on rice). Pools of water hang around everywhere and I note the traffic congestion in part due to buses entering and leaving the bus terminal. This is quite normal in Thailand. At least I’ve located the terminal and calculate I can walk there in the morning with my pack. After a quick browse around I head back to write these notes.
Tuesday 8th October
Kanchanaburi to Sangkhaburi
I awake to the sound of yet more rain. Last night a news channel reported the arrival of yet another tropical storm heading into Eastern Thailand an area already suffering from flooding. While that doesn’t immediately affect me here the threat of rain is never far away and I’m beginning to wonder what the day will bring. I’m also wondering if there will be anything to report here by the end of the day. I needn’t have worried on either score. I accept the offer I had yesterday to use the microwave in the office to boil water. Add that to 3 in 1 coffee and snacks bought yesterday and breakfast is sorted but it’s still raining. The 8am departure I thought might be possible looks like its doomed but by 8.30am the rain has stopped and I proceed to the bus station on foot. I’m in time for the 9am departure from Kanchanaburi.
As is usual in Thailand I am asked for my destination on arrival and quickly directed to the stand where I already know the slow bus will depart even though there are other options. I’m happy with this choice however. According to the travel guides this offers the best view of the scenery particularly around the Khao Laem Dam, officially named the Vachiralongkon Dam. Just to mention this route is operated by a private company but under government regulations. This service bus is among a breed that has stood the test of time, often brightly painted but showing its age. As I will find out it still has plenty of grunt through the mountain roads. The weather looks brighter, the roads now practically dry. The bus is almost full but I’m in good spirits now looking forward to the trip. A couple of passengers suggest that there are better options for me but I am happy with my choice. This transport option also affords the option to experience real Thailand and as is often the case some characters appear to ensure this day won’t be boring. A young man seemingly drunk makes his presence felt complaining he cannot adjust the windows in this non-airconditioned bus. He wants a seat by himself and eventually gets his way by evicting frightened young women from their seats much to the annoyance of the conductor. Just when my hackles are rising should he come near me he gets off the bus still in the main street of Kanchanaburi. An old man sits opposite determined to have a smoke despite a government imposed no smoking policy incurring a fine of 5,000 baht. He’s clearly aware of this as he does his best, not very cunningly, to disguise the fact: Interesting start. As is normal with rural bus services the bus will stop for any passenger who flags it down. At 9.30am it has hardly left the suburbs but as it does so the cloud base is visibly lifting and the mountain scenery in full view.
On previous visits I’ve never ventured too far from the town except for the train journey to Nam Tok Station, the end of the line. This bus journey will pass some of the tourist sites travelers venture to see when visiting Kanchanaburi. I feel regret that these are not yet part of my experiences. The Tiger Temple to the right, The caves at Kra Sae also a viewpoint on the death railway to the left, the village of Sai Yok, a tourist base, Hellfire Pass now 80 kilometres out of the city, all out of bounds for me today. Around midday the sun makes a brave attempt at an appearance and rain does not threaten. While passengers come and go the compliment of this 60 seater is thinning allowing more viewing options. Inevitably there is a rest stop. Most of the passengers depart at Thong Pha Phum and the driver and conductor take a meal break; welcome for me too. It’s 1pm. There seems no hurry over this but eventually a few more passengers are picked up in the town and the bus continues on to Sangkhlaburi about 65 kilometres away. As mentioned this leg takes in the mighty Khao Laem Dam. For a while there are only tree-lined roads but the vast waters soon appear. This spectacle provides interest for much of the remainder of the journey while the terrain gets progressively more rugged until finally the bus clears a pass and drops downs into Sangkhlaburi.
Tongsawan, Sangkhlaburi
Armed with a few places to stay I reject assistance from motorcycle riders and make my way on foot down towards the river. Here most of the resorts are found. The resort that springs to mind is Burmese Inn. I am heading in the right direction but don’t make it that far. I enquire at a resort on my right named Tongtawan run by a Thai family. I haven't located it on any tour guide but it is next to Weaving for Women which is listed. It does appear cheaper than Burmese Inn but does it tick all the boxes? Well No! There is no fridge and probably no internet connection. Huts and chalets are precariously perched on the sides of a narrow tributary that feeds into the river below. Certainly looks the part. Question is can I manage without the internet in the room? I can connect near the office when necessary and as I have my trusty flask with me I can store cold water in that. I set myself up for three nights.
In order to get my bearings I proceed further down the road. There has been an accident with a car firmly installed in a neighbour’s garden attracting some attention. Further along is a six-a-side football tournament is in progress. However I’m still not happy without independent transport. Ideally I need a motorbike for 2 days starting in the morning but things are looking up. When I enquire at restaurant/bar nearby they let me have one straight away. I can bring it back on Thursday evening.
With everything now set up for this trip I can relax. It’s dark before I head up into the town. Near the market there is street food but little else in the way of places to eat. Everything seems to be set up for takeaway food mostly precooked; not ideal but there is a 7Eleven convenience store if all else fails. As I reflect further on all this I can see it is a million miles away from Pattaya or Phuket and even areas of Bangkok which I’m used to. I’m told that the city virtually shuts down at 9am. That would never do for some. Some of the resorts near the river will have bars no doubt but I’m happy her at present updating my notes. I intend to upload the results in the morning.
Wednesday 9 October
An unfortunate start
This first full day in Sangkhlaburi starts with a trip to 7Eleven for a snack breakfast. Water is already on the boil for coffee. Apart from a cloudy start there is no sign of rain and the day set fair. I return for breakfast then before I can get my touring underway for the day, I need to upload yesterday’s work, not sure if I connect to the internet. I detect a service available but it’s not within range. I try moving closer to the signal source but that doesn’t work. What happens next will have a dampening effect on the day. I decide to take the motorbike up to the office, an otherwise long walk uphill. On arrival I open my netbook to find the screen broken. This is terminal and requires a new LED screen. I doubt if one is available here and if there was it would be expensive. Even in Bangkok the screen will cost the equivalent of two days touring. I can do nothing but wait till I get back at the weekend. It is a setback. My machine is a trusty companion on my travels. Now it is useless and I shall be somewhat blind without it. The cause of the damage may be the heat from the motorbike engine. Whether my touring will be compromised it’s too early to tell.
Sangkhlaburi Tour
Determined to soldier on I acquire a map. I can identify the principal sites that I need to visit. I head towards the Mon Village stopping at the concrete bridge to take photos. A little further is a viewpoint consisting of walkways, platforms and pagodas. This is my first good view of the Mon Bridge which has a section missing caused by seasonal high water levels. The road then skirts around the valley entering the Mon village and the location of the bridge entrance. There is little activity even though a temporary raft walkway is in situ. An enterprising young boy appears from nowhere and is keen to be my guide. In Thailand the schools are closed for holidays. The boy is from a Mon family but all children here are taught Thai and some English, the later invariably restricted by the lack of opportunity to use it conversationally. However I get the gist of his commentary. Clearly it is more than I can get from the internet right now. I tip him then head off to my next destination very impressed by the fact that this young man will use the money for school equipment rather than buy sweets. Soon I come upon Chedi Puttataya.
The location of this temple on a headland overlooking the waters of Khao Laem Dam is apt as it overlooks the now hidden site of the original temple completely visible for only one month of the year. Relocation and construction of this temple is down to the efforts of its founder Luang Phor Uttama. On the occasion of my visit preparations are underway for festivities later in the month to mark the 7th anniversary of his passing. Further along the headland is the site of his remains in Wat Wang Wiwekaram. This temple contains other interesting features and covered in more detail later. I head back towards Sangkhlaburi where I have a late lunch alongside the highway. Traveling away from town in the opposite direction toward the intersection is the site of Wat Somdet at the top of a rise. This offers good views of the surrounding countryside and that will be the end of touring for today. More detail of the sites covered today can be found here.
Other Business
The remainder of the afternoon is free for rest. In the evening I ride around locating other resorts that are included in the guides. Here P Guesthouse, there Forget-me-Not. They do appear to be more remote that at Tongtawan so unless trekking is on the menu then some other form of transport would be required. Returning to the town I find an acceptable restaurant near the market. I’m almost done for the day but in the main street a young boy has been bitten by a dog. It is important not only is his wound treated but he is inoculated for tetanus and rabies. I get the impression that the thought and indignity of going to hospital is more painful than the wound itself as he is hauled kicking and screaming onto the back of the motorbike.
It remains for me to write up some notes tonight which unfortunately requires pen and ink. Luckily my photographic record is intact. The only thing I cannot access is yesterday’s notes.
Thursday 10 October
Three Pagodas Pass
This morning breakfast arrangements are the same as yesterday’s, a quick visit to 7Eleven. As I reflect on the unfortunate damage to my main computer, I am comforted by the fact that this trip is otherwise coming in well under budget without compromising my itinerary. The day promises to be kind with hazy sunshine developing. It could be unique as there is just one venue on my list for today and it seems an important one.
Three Pagodas Pass is historically significant straddling the border with Myanmar. This 32 kilometre ride will take an hour along mountain roads. According to the guides it should be possible to cross the border for a $10 fee and by giving up one’s passport. I have $10 which I obtained in Bangkok but my passport is still held against rental of the motorbike. As the situation at the border is subject to change I don’t know what to expect. I am away by 10am and make my way out of Sangkhlaburi on the 323. I am surprised at the good condition of this highway so far from the capital and with little traffic it’s a pleasurable ride. Noting a few possible stopovers on the way back, I press on. There is the inevitable Jam Ruat Chai Dan checkpoint (Thai border police) but they wave me through with casual amusement. Finally the settlement at Three Pagodas Pass comes into view. It just seems like any other Thai village except there is a cluster of buildings of to the right indicating that this is the border post but with no officials in sight and seemingly no traffic passing across the border. The only activity there is, is centred around the border market on the Thai side. I soon find out that the crossing is closed to foreigners but open to Thais who apparently see no reason to cross the border. There appears to be nothing for them there. A few restaurants and souvenir shops cater for those who make it up here but this border crossing is no substitute for the crossing at Mae Sot, Trat Province. There are however a few reminders of recent history here which will be covered in more detail later.
After browsing around the site I settle for a bowl of noodles. It’s just midday and I hadn’t expected to be returning back so soon. Perhaps some of the sites I noticed on the way here will absorb some time. Just a few kilometres away is a sign to Keaw Savan Bandan Cave. Hardly high profile but I decide to give it a go. Here one kilometre along a track is a temple set at the entrance to a cave, a setting not unusual in Thailand. The Buddha image and ubosot (prayer hall) seem out of all proportion to community needs. Other than a few houses the area seems deserted for miles around. After a climb up to the cave entrance to take photos I return back along the 323. At the 19 kilometre post from Sangkhlaburi is a turning to Ta Khian Thong Waterfall. The distance from the main road is about 7 kilometres and the approach road seems little used and quite overgrown in places. It’s worth a look or so I thought. However, arriving at the entrance to the park I find the booth closed. Normal park fees of 200 baht for foreigners would normally apply. I do proceed inside but the ground is waterlogged and the pathways overgrown with jungle foliage. Again that’s as far as I can go.
About 12 kilometres out there is a concrete bridge across the headwaters of the Songkalia River. I pause here amused by the accumulation of children playing in the river. Although fast flowing in places they seem to know what they are doing and having great fun. I’m inclined to join them and take a paddle.
Other Business
That seems to be it. Hardly a full day as I head back to rest until dark. For dinner I had a rather tasty Penang curry and fried vegetables but my attention turns to itching of my right leg that has given me trouble before. It’s quite red and swollen again so I take the precaution of attending the hospital just around the corner. They give me some antibiotics and allergy pills, the latter causing some drowsiness coming with instructions not to drive. But I do need to take the motorbike back and I’m in for another surprise. The Blue Rock bar is closed. Apparently the English owner is away in Bangkok and the skeleton staff have close through lack of business. Obviously disturbed by this, I return to Baantawan. It’s possible the bar won’t open till late tomorrow and they have my passport. There was no paperwork and I don’t have a number to call. Fortunately they’ve left a contact number at reception. A quick call and my worries are over. I can now write up my notes and prepare for the trip back to Bangkok in the morning.
Friday 11 October
Sangkhlaburi Departure
As is usual the return from a tour is somewhat of an anti-climax. I consume coffee and croissant before making my way up the incline to the office at the top but I don’t relish the thought of walking back up to the town about a kilometre away; it’s a gradual incline all the way. However the owner continues his hospitality by offering to take me to the bus station on the motorbike. Wonderful!
I’m now early for the 9.30am bus service which turns out to be a 2nd class government bus. However this air-conditioned service will be comfortable enough and I will get plenty of leg room in the front seat. The earlier 1st class service has long departed but the interesting thing today is that a third service will depart later at 12.30pm as another vehicle becomes available. All these services terminate at Mochit Mai (Bangkok Northern Bus Terminal) but the problem today is the 359 kilometre journey. As things turn out I sleep for much of the way; the medication I’m taking making me drowsy. Before the bus reaches Kanchanaburi there will be no less than four stops at check-points; the Thai border police ever vigilant much to the annoyance of some passengers. A 15 minute break is taken at Thong Pha Phum to collect passengers and a similar one at Kanchanaburi then it’s all the way into Bangkok via the northern route in Nakhon Pathom Province then into Nonthaburi’s Bang Bua Tong and into the metropolis itself at Bang Khen turning south towards the terminal. Arrival is at 5.05pm after an epic journey of seven and a half hours. There is still work to do beating the rush hour traffic. In reality this is always far more than 1 hour. After dinner in Kubon Road I am finally back near to 7.30pm.
Conclusion
Sangkhlaburi is not the easiest place to get to. Kanchanaburi is a gateway to the deeply forested area that borders Myanmar. There is no airport and the quickest journey would be by minivan. Some are clearly prepared to use this service in cramped conditions with little room for luggage otherwise this is a long journey taking all day. I admit this is not the most exciting tour I have made. No doubt in the dry season there will be more options with the sunken temple coming into view together with traces of the death railway and the National Parks will be more welcoming for visitors who will be keen to escape the heat of Bangkok. I guess the greatest legacy of this trip is the cost. Sangkhlaburi is cheap for general needs and there is nothing really at the border markets to consider bringing back. I can’t honestly give this location 10 out of 10.