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Day 13 - Sunday 30 November 2014, Nan
Friction…….After a rather frustrating day yesterday I’m pleased to announce that Coconut Resort has provided me with the most comfortable bed so far this trip; so much so that I have to question the wisdom of vacating it to write these notes. However I am still on tour and the question of what to do next, fully occupies my mind. I’m also trying to come to terms with some issues that have put some strain on the working relationship I have with Katoon. These centre round selection of sites for this tour and such a basic thing as accommodation. Also my driving technique and preferences are being constantly questioned while I prefer my co-driver to concentrate more on map reading. I’m not sure the latter can be addressed that easily but certainly as regards tour planning I’m starting to believe this tour is simply a victim of its own success. When I decided to hire a car for this tour I just knew that it would open many doors for me. Quite how massive the implications of that have proved to be has caught me totally by surprise. In Petchabun Province I drew up a plan to cover the parks, in particular, in a systematic way. I’ve tried to do that in Nan but here the parks are so huge and borderlands so remote that to cover them in four or five days is challenging. The pressure is on because of this. How can I say I’ve adequately covered the area? With my co-driver feeling the effects of wilderness conditions and yearning for some home comforts, I really have no choice but to switch into compromise mode and make some decisions as to what to leave out. However I will do my very best to take in one more park today but quite where I will end up this evening is in the lap of the gods. The downbeat mood continues as I see Chelsea have been held at Sunderland. I’m in need of a pick-me-up today!
Day 13 underway…….As I begin my tour there’s no real debate on its direction. It’s still reasonably early at 9.45am. Almost immediately there’s something of interest as I head back into town so grateful for daylight. To the right before a bridge is a peaceful drive along the river bank. The water looks like a small lake but as I travel further along a cement road I can see that it’s caused by a weir. It looks a peaceful spot for simply doing nothing. In Thailand there is a thankful habit of building small wooden pagodas with seats for recreation or travel at any spot that warrants one. As there is nothing in English I can use I ask what the signboards refer to. I gather it’s the site of an old lignite mine and now I know this I see evidence of water from the river being diverted through a culvert. I understand that the area is to be further developed as a recreation area. I learn that this is the Yang River here, a tributory of the great Nan River nearby. Otherwise I’m at a loss to learn more. I head into the town then see signboards to something I can relate to from my guide maps.
Thai Lue Village…….A few kilometres from Tha Wang Pha is the Thai Lue village. I can’t suddenly produce an archive off the top of my head but I do remember from my visit to Nan museum that the Thai Lue is one of the ethnic minority groups found in Nan Province. They originate from Yunnan in southwest China. Most people entering the village will head for the temple, Wat Nong Bua. It was built in 1862 during the reign of King Rama V by Thai Lue craftsmen. Inside the temple there are wall murals that were believed to have been painted more than one hundred years ago. This is by no means all you need to know about the village. A traditional Thai Lue house is given over as a cultural museum and there are handicrafts available for visitors to buy. The visitor may also be treated to the sound of traditional music played by skilled musicians using contemporary instruments. In addition the temple grounds are laid out to give the visitor a wealth of photo opportunities. It’s more than I expected to see here and a good hour should be allowed in such a peaceful setting. I note there is no indication of leaving Nan Province anytime soon and I now assume that I will be staying in the province for a further night.
Santisuk Waterfall…….As I head back to the main road 101 I take the opportunity to fill the tank again with E20. As I had hoped I’m heading for another national park. Heading again off the highway I pick up signs to Nanthaburi National Park. I’m not really expecting anything grander than I’ve already witnessed on this tour but very soon the road begins to climb into the forest again. At a junction I turn left towards the park. I’ve allocated a couple of hours for this trip which should take me to lunch.
However, before too long I see a sign to a waterfall. The signboard is not in English but I see it’s 2.5 kilometres down a narrow concrete read. Ok that’s going to delay me about half an hour. As I reach the base of the falls it’s deserted and there’s nothing really to see and I’m thinking of heading back. There is however a natural feel to the place as colourful butterflies flit around. Then the complexion of the day changes as a family of day trippers arrives. About ten bodies pile out of the pick-up truck. They’re heading into the forest to visit the falls. As I’ve no idea of what lies ahead it obviously makes sense to ask. The head of the family explains that there are 3 levels to the falls, none of which are visible from my position. But wait! Where is the trail? I’m told that the trip up the falls will take 20-30 minutes and is well worth the effort. What to do, should I follow them? They seem to have put down a challenge and I get the nod from Katoon to proceed. The trail starts by crossing the fast flowing stream. No wonder I couldn’t see the start point. This will not be the only time this is necessary. After a short but very steep climb the first level of the waterfall comes into view. It’s a 50 metre drop into a rock pool but just a few metres wide. With wet sandals from crossing the stream I realise my footwear is not ideal for this and the steepness of the climb is causing some concern. It’s more challenging than ever I can remember but I make it to the second level where I note things hardly getting easier. I consider turning back but the family has disappeared well ahead. Should I let this trek break my spirit? It’s a final effort to the third level where not only is there a rock pool but a small cave as well, partially flooded. It’s a marvelous photo opportunity I’m glad I didn’t miss out. On the way back I make some adjustments including removing my sandals in places. It really is tricky crossing the stream. As I arrive back at the base I’m in awe of my compatriots who had to endure these conditions for months on end during WW2. This unscheduled activity has thrown all my immediate plans out of the window. I’ve yet to reach the park itself and it’s already lunchtime.
Nanthaburi National Park…….From the falls I head back to the park road and almost immediately the road rises steeply without a break for about 15 minutes. The forest is so dense that I can’t even get a view of my surroundings. Then, as at Doi Phu Kha National Park, the road traverses a ridge. WOW! If I had any idea this trip was winding down, I just forgot it. My impression was that the parks to the west of the Nan River were not as spectacular as those near the Thai/Lao border: So wrong again. Clinging to the ridge is a hill-tribe village just as typical as those in Laos. I’m still looking for the park entrance.
When I eventually reach it there is good and bad news. In this quieter park there is no ticket office on this route that I can see although I’m told there is accommodation here. The bad news is that to reach the summit of Doi Wow inside the park requires another 4.5 kilometres. The road now is reduced to a dirt track. I conclude that this is unsuitable for the Nissan although I would be happy if I had a 4 X 4. It’s so near yet so far. I’m ready to head back. However the road maps I’m using are not detailed enough to confirm whether or not this is a through route. Katoon thinks it might be and I press on for another 20 minutes. This offers splendid views but in the end the road just peter’s out at a small village in the mountains. A group of motorcyclists have also made it this far but I’m not sure their ambitions were as strong as mine. I’ve wasted about 40 minutes. It’s time to head back but the drain on my time today is sure to cause the termination of the trip. By the time I reach Tha Wang Pha lunch is very very overdue. It’s 4.15pm. This latest expedition has only fueled my ongoing concerns about coverage of Nan Province in these notes. I stop for food, whatever the time of day.
Sukthaihome…….Thankfully after better sleep last night I’m still alert enough to anticipate that I might arrive late at suitable accommodation and incur the tiresome ritual of finding somewhere to eat as well. There have been no rooms on this tour so far that have a restaurant. Feeling pleased with myself for ordering a takeaway, as well, to consume later at selected accommodation I hand the driving to Katoon to guide us on the final leg today. Although it’s gone 4.30pm we continue south and reach the outskirts of Nan just after 5pm. Very shortly a motel appears on the left. It’s of a type I used on the way here. This one however seems more comfortable and has a fridge! As I look around at what this motel offers, my mouth drops. Loading up with rice in polystyrene trays I just don’t believe it! Yes you guessed it! This one has restaurant. Doh! Still around 6pm I’ve settled in. As I sum up the day I’m reasonably pleased that I stayed in Nan Province for that extra day matching what I did in Petchabun Province. As the day ends, there may still be excursions here tomorrow morning but after that I really must head south.
Day 14 - Monday 1 December 2014, Phrae
Incessant chatter…….This morning when I wake the routine is hardly normal. For the second night in three days I’ve been subjected to interrupted sleep. At some unearthly hour a couple move into the next room and engage in incessant chatter. I awake from quite a deep sleep and can’t settle for a good hour. I debate whether to take the law into my own hands but peace seems to return soon after and so does my sleep. Although I wake at the normal time and road noise is rising and general activity is increasing, I fall back asleep. Its 9am before I’m fully awake so no time to work on my blog. At least the breakfast routine is the same, if a bit late. My plan is to spend the morning in the province before heading south but that’s already compromised. Nevertheless I make a start and reach my first site just after 11am. With better luck I could have added this yesterday as it was on the way into Nan.
Pratup Cave Forest Park…….Thankfully Pratup Cave Forest Park is near the main road. It’s a perfect recreational area at the foot of a cave system. The park encloses a small arboretum then a trail leading to a number of limestone caves. The obvious ones are just a few hundred metres from the road but except for the first they do require a steep climb. Without water to worry about and with a generous supply of concrete steps, I’m up for it again. I spend about 45 minutes exploring the park and arboretum but I’m no tree expert and with the names either written using scientific names or in Thai, I can’t really add more about these native species. It’s time to head back to Nan.
Happy Birthday…….As I head back to Nan despite the late start there is something else not normal about this day that I must factor into the day’s events. It’s Katoon’s birthday and she needs a blessing from a monk and has already identified the venue. It’s one of the temples we visited a few days ago. She’s singled out the temple Phra That Chae Hang on the eastern side of the Nan River. I simply can’t refuse the request even though it is consuming more valuable time. Its 12.45pm before the ritual is over. One positive is that we can eat at the same riverside restaurant we used before. I simply can’t resist the khao soi. So this is it; the end of my stay in Nan Province. Well, not quite.
Ban Marabri…….Logic should dictate that I head south on the 101. The provincial border is not too much more than an hour away. As I look at the time I take a decision to take a more scenic route out of the province. I start by heading west on the 1091 towards Phayao. This will take me through Doi Phu Nang National Park. I will have to be careful with the time. Fortunately the road is good even though after 30 minutes the mountain climb begins. At around 2pm I pick up a sign which I take to be a waterfall. The board indicates a distance of 11 kilometres. Let’s go for it; should delay me only 45 minutes. The road is tarmaced and surprisingly good even by park standards. At first it drops sharply towards the valley, rises steeply to the next ridge then carries on undulating, offering more glorious views. After 11 kilometres there is a signboard but there’s no waterfall as I expected. All I can see is a village and it’s not quite like the other hill tribe villages I’ve become accustomed to. It is really primitive. So what seems to have singled this one out? I’m about to find out as I climb a steep concrete road that reveals a scene hardly touched by the outside world for centuries. All that’s here is a collection of bamboo huts except a more substantial building to my left. It soon becomes clear that this is the nursery school complete with about 10 little bodies asleep on mats. Two teachers are on duty here and the young male teacher explains that we are welcome to look around. It’s hard to intrude on someone’s privacy but all indications are that we are welcome. The only hut I feel comfortable in is what I can only suggest is a community hall barely 12 feet square with a bamboo table in the middle. Initially just a few children occupy the room but soon a few older ladies arrive. The only other thing in the room, apparently the only example in the village, is a TV. Quite how much value it is to some of the children I’m not sure because none, except one of the older children looking after a sibling seems to speak fluent Thai let alone English.
The only folk currently in the village apart from the teachers are the old and the young. All able bodied persons are out on the hillside gathering in the annual harvest of corn. This is all another culture shock to me having witnessed relative prosperity in Thailand in recent years. In the community room I am quite shocked with the condition of clothing and personal cleanliness of the children but there is one precious piece of information I do manage to obtain from the older student. That’s the name of the village. It’s Ban Marabri and that rings a bell. From the information I obtained from the National Museum in Nan I know that this is one of the smaller minority tribes in Nan Province and they were nomadic until quite recently. Armed with this I can do further research. I return to chat with the teacher who explains that there was a visit to the area by the king some years ago. Then some provision was made for the people here that enabled them to at least reroof their houses with tiles and tin removing the previous bamboo thatch. Electricity and water were also provided but since then there has been very little help. I’m really moved to make a donation. From the register no one has visited the village for over a week. What I donated will provide the nursery children with clean clothes or food for a week. As I bid my farewells this really is the end of my Nan provincial tour and what a way to end it!
Nan exit…….I head back to the 1091. This diversion has cost and hour and a quarter. I continue west through the forest until the road starts its descent into a broader valley, through the small town of Ban Luang, then on towards another town, 20 kilometres away but first, finally, I exit Nan Province. At Chiang Muan I turn left, joining the 1120. It’s exactly 4pm and I’m no nearer to Bangkok than I was in the morning. I’m now in the southeastern corner of Phayao Province, incredibly, but as I pass through another section of the park I’m in another province; that of Phrae. It’s here that the mentality of constantly looking around for potentially interesting sites comes to an end. It’s time to really hit the gas. By 5pm I’m passing through to town of Song on the 103 from Ngao and spend a while looking for suitable accommodation but there’s nothing that looks convenient to shops and restaurants. I hand the driving back to Katoon again with the intention of pressing on to the city of Phrae. Now we’re back on the 101, the driving is much easier. We make it just before dark and it seems this city is familiar to Katoon from her distant past. She easily finds a hotel in the city.
Paradorn Hotel…….The Paradorn Hotel will be the first hotel I’ve used this tour and, as such provides everything included breakfast. The rooms are well equipped but the one I choose is a little cramped compared to what I’m used to. Given the cause for celebration today it’s appropriate to eat in the hotel off the dinner menu. That provides the most expensive meal so far this tour but honestly I’ve been amazed how easy on the pocket this adventure has been here in the north.
Day 15 - Tuesday 2 December 2014, Pitsanulok
Breakfast included…….Arriving in Phrae yesterday hardly brings me that much closer to Bangkok but it is feasible to make it in one day. However two days is more than enough. My arrival at Paradorn Hotel has ensured that my routine will be different today as breakfast is included. I’m packed and ready to go before I go down to the dining area. Quite what I was expecting I don’t know but while I see self-service coffee available the only indication that there is food as well is a large bowl containing kow tom (rice soup). However there is an alternative; I can order toast and jam. OK I didn’t really expect an American breakfast with all the trimmings but they are happy to do me two fried eggs for a small fee. I’m happy with that.
Free Thai Movement…….With no urgency to get underway, I take an interest in a museum seemingly in the hotel grounds: A strange place to have one or so I thought yesterday when I arrived. The museum is dedicated to the Free Thai Movement.
Again I’m at a loss as to what’s it’s about. Let’s find out! Before I even enter the museum it’s become obvious it relates to WW2. Only ever aware of the Japanese landings and the ‘death railway’ in Thailand this is news to me in an area nowhere near to Kanchanaburi where the railway was constructed. Inside the building on the ground floor in several rooms there are exhibits, reconstructions and biographical and historical information. There is enough English narrative to enable me to get a detailed picture of what the museum is dedicated to. It’s another chance for me to review a site in due course but basically The Free Thai Movement was a resistance movement in Thailand that operated covertly in cooperation with US intelligence. It’s clear that they also received help in training the small force. Much of the narrative concentrates on the personalities who drove the resistance forward at a time when officially, Thailand was at war with the Allies. A tangled web of politics is revealed which continued after the war but which apparently led to Thailand remaining free from international intervention. What an amazing start to the day and I haven’t yet left the hotel. And it’s about to get even better. Just as I’m about to leave having taken my last batch of photos, a smartly dressed Thai man approaches me from the hotel where I had seen him entertaining a couple of foreign visitors. As he introduces himself I’m rather taken aback. He points to the memorial at the front of the museum where there is a life-size bronze of three individuals. It’s too much for me at this stage to connect names with the resistance movement but I already have a good idea of their roles. When I’m told that I’m speaking with the son of one of key leaders I’m almost speechless. But soon we develop an interesting conversation and I learn that this is the only site in Thailand dedicated to the Movement. I inform him that I am very impressed with the work done here and will do my best to promote the site later.
It's then that I realise why the museum is in the hotel grounds. This proud yet humble man is also the hotel owner. How does one top that on a day when touring has effectively ended?
Old City…….As I depart, Katoon is keen to start the driving. It seems to be for personal reasons as the area is familiar to her. It soon becomes clear that the tour certainly hasn’t ended. She’s obtained a city map and heads for the old city where there are the remains of the old city wall and moat. It’s well worth a stop with the option to walk along to old ramparts while the area is tastefully restored. It’s just more information for my archive. I manage to get my bearings from a city map and suggest we head for a temple near the river, Wat Chay Ta Wan. I’m interested in a photo opportunity to record my arrival at the banks of the River Yom, one of four major rivers that will eventually combine to form the Chao Phraya. The temple itself is from the 19th century but not that interesting although the abbot has gone the extra mile to record in English the history of the area which was originally virgin forest.
More temples…….I’ve already visited three sites and Katoon is about to add more. Driving out of the city she heads for Wat Phrathat Cho Hae. This important religious site rivals the iconic Doi Suthep in Chiang Mai and is the most sacred in Phrae Province. It was built in the 14th century during the reign of King Lithai and is reputed to house Lord Buddha’s hair relics.
While this temple was never on my tour list, I’m being quite tolerant at the moment and I manage to collect some items that I can use as Christmas presents later this month. Just a few kilometres away, is another temple, nowhere near as grand but this one is also sacred on account of its age. Wat Prathat Chom Chaeng is known to have been in existence during King Lithai’s reign as the records show it was restored at this time. It has some rather remarkable features which I will deal with later. Time is ticking on and it’s time for lunch, now after 1.30am. I’m assuming that this really is the tour’s end as there’s been no sign of making inroads into the still considerable journey back to Bangkok. Suitably refreshed Katoon heads back to the highway and I pick up the signs to the route south. However instead of turning left she turns right. I ask her what’s going on and she explains there is one more place I should visit. I just can’t see there’s any more time left but she seems insistent. I assume it’s another temple but it’s not. It’s a forest park clearly of national significance. She users me to look around but I explain again there’s no time. Simply reading the sign boards brings me to the conclusion that this site has to take at least another hour otherwise there’s no point in me recording it. My impression is that it’s an important geological site. On any ordinary day I would be glad to stop here at Phae Muang Phi Forest Park but given that Phrae was never on my list for a visit, even what I’ve managed today doesn’t fit well in this tour. At 2.30pm with no attempt so far to head for Bangkok my frustration spills over. Not surprisingly I get the car keys back and head for the main highway.
On the wrong track…….One of the possible stops on the return journey was either Den Chai or Uttaradit where there is a railway line. I figured that I might be able to take a railway journey through the mountains but that Idea has long gone. As I head south out of Phrae Province the road converts to dual carriageway and will be so now all the way to Bangkok. In Den Chai I pull off the main highway. Katoon assumes I’m heading for the railway station but in truth I’m confused with the signs and cannot pick one up to Uttaradit in the next province. By sheer luck I find my way to the railway station anyway but I know at this time of the day little traffic is expected and so it proves. The station is practically deserted even though this is on the main Bangkok to Chiang Mai line. I make my way back to the highway where I finally pick up route 11 heading south through Uttaradit Province. With open road and little traffic I finally get an honest spell of driving in and cover 200 kilometres effortlessly. After bypassing Uttaradit it’s on to the next province, Pitsanulok. Even so it’s well after 5pm before I reach the outskirts of the city. Pitsanulok is slightly further from Bangkok that Petchabun but I can easily reach Bangkok in five hours from here. Perhaps that was what Katoon was thinking but I didn’t want to leave all the driving to the last day.
BP Tower……. As I turn off the highway heading into the city the road is busy but I easily pick up a sign on my left advertising accommodation. I see it’s another apartment block but on quite a grand scale compared with the one I used in Petchabun; same price though. It’s spacious with all the normal facilities except a restaurant. I don’t wait to settle in but head out onto the main road where there are dining options. One restaurant on the opposite side of the road looks a grand affair, one of the largest restaurants you will see. It’s called Phak Bung Hurn Fah. This refers to a vegetable dish normally taken as a side but it’s become a gimmick to fry this vegetable over a fierce heat; add a splash of water and you get a spectacular fireball. It’s not unique but maybe here they do have something different as the chef attempts to toss the contents of his wok some 20 feet to his colleague on a platform above. The attempt to catch it on a plate fails twice, much to the amusement of the guests. They don’t try it a third time. Naturally I’m in for another interesting meal to make up for the rest of the day. As it’s my last night on tour I can afford to experiment and to good effect.
Day 16 - Wednesday 3 December 2014, Bangkok
Anti-climax…….
Today was always going to be an anti-climax with no site visits planned. Awake before 7am I make no attempt to finalise my blog. In fact my notes are up to date but I haven’t published anything for two days. With nothing interesting expected to be added today, I decide to complete my tour blog when I return to Bangkok. I’ve made no attempt at all to secure breakfast and concentrate entirely on packing. That done, I make myself a coffee in reception and add to that, something from a minimart, part of the BP Tower complex. At just 9am I’m on my way but perhaps there is time to record something on this day.
Tonight in Bangkok…….I head for Pitsanulok railway station. I’ll be lucky if I see anything as it’s too late for the morning traffic: And so it proves. Nice try though.
I find my way out of the city somehow, rejoining highway 11 heading south. This road is at least 2 lanes wide so progress is good despite heavy trucks using this route. I carry on through Phicit Province then onto Nakhon Sawan then, into early afternoon a couple of rest stops are needed, the second for lunch but not quite up to the standard I’ve been used to. I hand the driving over to Katoon who makes good progress through the next provinces; Uthai Thani, Chainat, Singburi, and Angthong, all relatively small. On reaching Ayutthaya with less than 100 kilometres to go there’s a projected arrival time just after 3pm. Soon the Kanchanapisek eastern ring road is reached, route 9. It’s not long now till this tour finally ends. On reaching base Katoon disappears to give the car a clean up and do some shopping. At 4.30pm the car is ready to send back to the airport. That’s a straightforward process this time and I’m not surprised to learn that I’ve recorded 3,140 kilometres this tour, an average of nearly 200 kilometres per day.
Final thoughts…….Back at base around 6.30 I put the final touches to my blog for this tour but there will have to be a review. The tour has been so full of opportunity that it will take a while to sum it up. In a nutshell the tour has lived up to its title, ‘Natural Thailand’, in so many ways and I’ve had the added advantage of being free from any heath issues that have compromised previous tours. No doubt as time passes this tour will be remembered as one of my greatest adventures and I’m already thinking about a sequel, ‘Natural Thailand (2)’. I will remain in Bangkok now for another 8 days then return to the UK for Christmas. In the remaining time I can only hope to sort and catalog my picture files, totaling nearly 1,500. To succeed in reviewing individual sites which were visited on this tour, as I hope to do, will take much longer.
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