Friday 25 October 2013

Penang departure……….I get a wake-up call just before 6am. Last night I brought home some tarts; for breakfast of course. Together with hot coffee I’m set for the morning. By 7am I’m ready to check-out of Grand Inn. The recommended transport to Swettenham Pier where the Langkawi speedboats depart is by taxi but by this time I’m alert. I take the 101 bus to the jetty factoring in a good 30 minutes. I’m now aware that the jetty for mainland traffic is a generous 10 minutes from Swettenham Pier on foot. Readers should be aware that I am travelling with a backpack and utility bag of no more than 10 kilos. Anything more would require a taxi to this pier. I’m in plenty of time for the 8.30am departure to Langkawi. I make my way through the complex which provides for international traffic but on this occasion customs and baggage scans are unnecessary as this is a domestic service. The boarding commences, the seats unallocated, a fact that confuses some foreigners, but not me. The weather fine for now, cloudy but dry. As the ferry departs I am working on my netbook updating my notes. The sea is relatively calm and the crossing surprisingly smooth. On making some enquires about this service I was told the crossing would take two hours. I thought this rather optimistic at the time as travel guides suggest three hours. The latter would be right and not for the first time here I’m given misinformation. On the hour mark I give up writing notes and gaze out of the cabin window. The skyline ahead certainly looks darker as I try to get some rest; not so easy with the chatter around me. At half way I’m sensing a storm brewing. The white fluffy clouds are disappearing behind me replaced with dark grey matter then on two hours the ferry is completely engulfed in mist and murk with visibility down to about two hundred yards. Rain begins to lash against the cabin windows; this is not the type of vessel for sightseeing on deck. Into the third hour I’m considering the consequences should I arrive at Kuah with weather like this. With about 45 minutes left there appears a slither of white light on the horizon which steadily widens and extends. This signals hope that the storm will have passed by the time the boat arrives on the island. With the widening horizon land becomes visible and increases in clarity. Up above the cloud is thinning eventually revealing patches of blue sky. Dead ahead the grey hills turn a natural green completely transforming the outlook for this trip. In fact the lush green archipelago of islands gives that tropical island paradise feel much as is does on Krabi, Thailand. Compared with Penang it’s like stepping into another world, luxury masted yachts in harbor replacing the container ships off Penang Island. It causes me to think about Francis Light’s landing at Penang all those years ago. It must have been like this but without the yachts but then this mariner was not that bothered about island paradises only trade.
Kuah……….Kuah is the main town on Langkawi Island just a few kilometres from the jetty. Exit from the jetty is through a duty free zone similar to that at airports then beyond is the taxi stand with eager drivers looking for customers. I’m still getting my bearings and inclined to be patient. There is no rush; it’s only midday. With the weather now clear I can put my plan A into action. I don’t need to stay in Kuah if I can arrange transport across the island where the beaches lie. I have selected a quiet beach known as Pantai Kok, the smaller of two beaches listed in my guide but how to get there? Unlike Penang public transport has not been developed here and it’s down to private operators: That really means taxis but I have another idea. If I can rent a motorbike I can make the journey of 20 kilometres myself and give me complete freedom to find suitable accommodation. Quite honestly I’ve had a bad run of selecting rooms online so I figure the old fashioned approach will work better for me. Among the throng eager to do business a chap offers to rent a motorbike. He is obviously on a commission but I don’t know the going rate here although I know it’s higher than across the border. The chap wants 40 Ringgit which is almost double what I’m used to paying but I see no obvious alternative. I try to get the price down but he insists this is already his best price. It’s not as if I can just wander up the street from here but could take a taxi into Kuah and perhaps get a better rate. Faced with the unknown, I accept the 40 Ringgit but only for 1 day. With the formalities complete I can now be on my way. I note the roads around here to be a good international standard for an island of this size as I head into Kuah. First I need some food and stop at a Thai restaurant which is quite a gimmick as its run by Chinese who don’t speak a word of Thai. Still, it will do if a bit overpriced. My next chore is to get some fuel for the bike. This at least is cheap. The petrol station is self-service unlike across the border but operates differently to the UK. You first pay the cashier at the kiosk and then dispense the fuel. OK I’m ready to head for Pantai Kok along well maintained roads. The main problem I have is that sign boards are not in English and the map I obtained not too clear but somehow I make it to my planned destination observing the signs to the airport which is on my left.
Yet more wasted time……….I’m relying on what I’ve read and from local advice I’m given which has supported my decision to head for Pantai Kok. It’s all wrong or so it seems. Pantai Kok is a small village with a very nice beach but there is little here; some beach huts, a marina, a few expensive looking resorts but not at all what I was expecting. I make some enquiries but the isolation does not sit well with me despite having the motorbike. Where are the shops, where are the restaurants? In this Muslim community I do find a roadside restaurant where as it turns out I get some simple but effective advice. I’m told to head for Pantai Cenai further down the coast which is the main beach area mentioned in my guide. Hindsight is a wonderful thing as this area has everything I need but I’ve wasted a couple of hours. Forget the outdated travel books and websites. You read it first here. Head for Pantai Cenang which is growing so fast it’s now overtaken Kuah as the island's main destination.
Easy Hotel……….Before I reach Pantai Cennang I further enquire at what looks like a selection of wooden huts albeit in a prime location on the beach. I’m surprised to find a young English lady running the show and what a show she’s running. I don’t need to check what accommodation she’s offering as she explains that being low-season she is prepared to offer 40% discount on the normal price. That still works out at over £60. That’s it I’m outa here! Still feeling a bit low I arrive in Pantai Cenang. Stopping to look around I’m approached by a smart looking businessman who wants to show me his hotel. He’s rather pushy but time is ticking on and I’m now less inclined to be patient. Arriving at Easy Hotel it looks smart enough and checking the rooms it ticks all the boxes. The room is most spacious compared with the one I had in Penang with loads of table top space to use my computer. The only problem is the price, 100 Ringgit. While I ponder this I consider it’s only 5 Ringgit more than I paid Penang and as the man explains this is a 150 Ringgit room. I accept but again just commit for 1 night. The staff does appear more accommodating and the atmosphere a big improvement: Added to that it’s just 2 minutes across the road to the beach. My spirits are instantly lifted. It’s time for a long overdue rest.
Pantai Cenang……….Late in the afternoon it’s time to explore the surroundings. Pantai Cenang consists of a coastal road skirting a sandy beach a few kilometres long. The whole strip is occupied by hotels, motels, guesthouses, huts, restaurants, travel agents, money changers, minimarts and shops of all descriptions. However there are no beer bars and night clubs that I have noticed giving it a family atmosphere. In fact only a few places sell alcohol most of which is drunk out of public view. The contradiction here is that being a duty free island, beer in particular is exceptionally cheap. There is an abundance of specialist imported beers from all over the globe, a good proportion of it high strength. It should be a drinker’s paradise but it seems that Muslim dominance here suppresses its effects. As I wander onto the beach it’s still light, here until 7pm. The weather has been good since my arrival on Langkawi and many people are still doing what comes natural in this environment; bathing, kicking around footballs etc. A paraglider can be seen in the distance but motor scooters park up on the beach unused, an indication this is still low season. This is certainly no deserted palm fringed beach but at the present time by no means overcrowded. I head on down the strip where I’m told the duty free shop is located. The Cenang Shopping Mall houses a number of specialist shops on two floors but also houses the duty free shop on the first floor. A quick glance around reveals some ridiculous prices for spirit from 20 Ringgit per litre. Wine stars at about the same price but there is no vin ordinaire here. Beer oddly enough is best purchased at some minimarts. A 500ml can of Dutch lager, I purchased, was just 4 Ringgits and a whopping 12% abv. I would feel its effects later as I wrote my notes. The mall was the extent of my travels in the evening. The restaurants here are predominantly Muslim with a smattering of everything else including Mexican I see. Any Western food is usually tacked on the menu with other foods but with one notable exception. I will end the day with a strong lager but not before a KFC: Great for a change but what about the fries? Forgot to bring my magnifying glass!

Saturday 26 October 2013

More decisions……….Today I am late waking with no clear after effects from last night. Easy Hotel provides mugs, instant coffee and lemon/ginger tea with milk and creamer. There is a kettle to boil water something that appears to be standard in most accommodation here. However I have not arranged a breakfast. Two thing need to be settled today. I want to check out from Easy Hotel to get a better rate. 100 Ringgit per night is barely sustainable. The other concerns the motorbike. I’ve only paid for 1 day. It should be back at Kuah by 1pm. Neither of these issues will be settled anytime soon. It’s raining heavily and continues to do so throughout the morning. Nevertheless I check out of Easy Hotel leaving my bags at reception while I find something to eat. On this recce I try to resolve both issues but fail. Several options I considered yesterday lead nowhere as I’m unable to shave much of the 100 Ringgit tag. I really need it to stop raining to cast the net further. Perhaps I plate of chicken fried rice will give me inspiration. Well it may have done. At least the sky looks less threatening and bang on midday the rain eases. I head back to Easy Hotel to get my bags. Is this going to be another awkward day?
Cenang Valley Inn..........I start up the motorbike little knowing that within 30 minutes everything will be sorted out not just for today but the next 3 days. To the landward side of the beach road are a number of private tracks many of which lead to guesthouses and bungalows. Easy Hotel is on one of these tracks. As I head off to the beach road I notice a turning to my right where accommodation is signposted. Several possibilities immediately come into view. Just two hundred yards down the track work is underway building new chalets. If I look beyond this work I see the chance of getting a good rate on the existing units. I’m right. The owner turns to greet me gladly wanting me to check out the rooms. The rooms are much nearer the rooms I normally stay in, in Thailand. Not posh but ticking all the boxes. He wants 70 Ringgit per night. I ask for a discount for three nights and we settle for 65 Ringgits/night. It’s soon sorted. Not only that but the owner is able to call the number I’m given when renting the motorbike. I don’t need to travel back to Kuah. The owner of the bike will come here: Worried about payment huh! It’s one of those imponderables. Should I have been more patient yesterday? I’m just minutes away from Easy Hotel. I did have the time.
Another setback……….Time is passing and there’s no sign of the owner of the motorbike. I can’t wait around all day. There’s still three hours of daylight but any thought of a grand tour of the island today has long gone. Still I’ve two full days left. This 14 day (13 nights) four centre tour divides into 3 nights per location with 1 night free. It’s not free anymore. It’s time to have a look around Cenang. Carrying on down the strip there is more of the same resort activity. Another duty free outlet appears on my right. I will check that out on the way back. At a small cove at the end of the strip activity centres around parasailing. I decline to participate and head on further around the headland towards Pantai Tengah. Here there are some top of the range resorts but a small bay serves as a jetty for boats taking customers island hopping, snorkeling, scuba diving etc. The only thing I find interesting about underwater right now is a tea bag. This location is however provides me with one of the best views of the archipelago so far. I head back to Cenang to the duty free shop I spotted earlier. It seems even cheaper than the other one: Now time for a meal. Tonight it’s Thai food and mighty tasty it is too. I arm myself with another can of strong lager and head back to my room. As I write up some notes I find it’s difficult to download web pages from here despite a message confirming a connection. In the process Yahoo has asked me to confirm password detail. For some reason maybe because of a poor connection wrong input has caused a system lock-out. The only way I can recover is to get a code sent to my UK phone which is back in Bangkok. I’m faced with 10 days without access to emails. This is virtually a lifeline as I don’t have a Malaysian SIM card in my phone either. I won’t be back in Thailand for three more days. The best I can do I think is to post a message on my website. They say calamity comes in three’s. I’ve just discovered also that the SD card slot on my computer isn’t working which means I cannot transfer photos from my computer without an adaptor. There is plenty for me the think about tonight. Perhaps the lager will alleviate the suffering!

Sunday 27 October 2013

Orientation..........This morning by contrast there’s no rain so I can begin exploring Langkawi Island in earnest. I finish off a coffee and snack then as I’m ready to go the owner or agent of the motorbike turns up at Cenang Valley Inn: He does like his paperwork. I’ve also noticed the rear tyre need some air. He takes the bike away to get that sorted and fills up the tank in the process. I check my local map which confirms a good selection of sites to visit on the tourist trail. Not surprisingly a good proportion of these are natural features. The archipelago of islands is a wonder in itself supported by impressive karsk rock formations heavily forested. There are three national parks. To the west is Machinchang Cambrian Geoforest Park. I entered this briefly on the first day while looking for accommodation in Pantai Kok. The second park, Kilim Karst Geoforest Park covers the northeast and entire east coast of the island as well as a number of islands off the coast. I will enter here today. The third park is offshore to the south. The Pulau Dayang Bunting Geoforest Park can only be reached by boat. There is no shortage of tours there. These parks include their fair share of waterfalls, caves, freshwater lakes, jagged karst peaks, rocky coves, stacks and reefs all adding to the wonder in this area of outstanding natural beauty. Add to this an abundance of man-made features and the question arises where to start and make sense of it all.
Heading inland..........One thing that has changed things is the situation with the motorbike. Kuah is definitely off the list for today yet as I head into the hinterland I take a wrong turn searching for one of the sites and find myself on the outskirts of the town. All I’ve managed so far is one viewpoint and it’s already late morning. I finally reach the road to the north of the island at Air Hangat I’m wondering about lunch. On the roadside I notice what would pass as a mobile café; a small van with open sides that I’ve not seen in Southeast Asia before. Pre-packed rice dishes are on offer together with a rice meal with dried fish wrapped in banana leaf. There are spring rolls and a variety of cakes. I’m a willing customer as I don’t want to waste more time. Further up the road is a rest area, again something I’m not used to out here. It overlooks a small artificial lake with a nature trail running around it. It’s a great spot to eat my takeaway meal. I feel like a fisherman who has sat on the riverbank all day without a catch. I head off hoping for a bite. This comes in the form of the Mardi Agrotechnology Park. Here you will find a tropical fruits farm, a grapes trail and a recreation spot. There is an admission fee but further along the road there is a forest park beautifully landscaped and set aside for recreation of the people. There is no entry fee as there often is across the border. However I am having some difficulty finding some of the places indicated on my map. It’s becoming quite frustration that Malaysia sees no reason to put signs up in English, hard to understand in a country where the vast majority of folk have some basic English. Across the border it’s the opposite. Little English is spoken except at resorts but with the exception of some religious sites, sign almost always include an English translation. Even in the former French colonies English translation is often available. Curious!
Gunung Raya……….As I head north it’s ticking on 2pm. A sign comes into view pointing to a right turn to Gunung (mountain) Raya. This mountain stands at 881 metres and to reach it involves a climb of 12 kilometres by road. There is a trail to the summit but it's a stiff climb of over 2 hours. This makes it one of the least accessible locations on the island. I'm sticking to the road option. At the base there is a sign warning of danger during bad weather due to rock falls. There is certainly no wall to wall sunshine and the cloud base could cause a problem at the summit obscuring magnificent views. On my way up I get a number of greeting from school children making their way down the mountain. It is clearly a school trip. At the halfway point the clouds look menacing and a few spots of rain appear. At 4 kilometres left I’m hit by a storm. There’s nowhere to shelter with dense forest all around. I have to press on. Finally near the summit the rain eases and stops. I fear the journey wasted if there are no views from here but at the margin of cloud level I catch the magnificent panorama if Langkawi archipelago. It’s no ideal but I’ve ticked off one of the most remote locations on the island. Curiously as I descend the sun come out drying my wet clothes. The children are still making their way down the mountain some already at the base where a school bus awaits.
Tajung Rhu Beach..........I continue north to Air Hangat and the northern coast arriving at Tajung Rhu beach. Here there are no shops or hawkers but the village is just a couple of kilometres away. The beach is inviting and practically deserted with the water scooters idle. I don’t think they will be in high season. I turn back and take a left into Kilim Karst Geoforest Park.
Kilim Karst Geoforest Park..........A few kilometres on the right are hot springs in Air Hangat Village then a bit further, again on the right, is a turning to Durian Perangin Waterfall. These were bypassed as it’s raining again, black clouds massing in front of me. Within minutes torrential rain is falling. At least here I can stop the bike at one of the food shelters; as basic as you like but with rain like this a tin roof is a godsend. I may as well have a bowl of noodle soup while I wait: Turns out to be quite filling. The storm is over quickly and I head for the Kilim Karst Geoforest Park visitor centre. Here again I’m a bystander. The centre is on a jetty on the mangrove surrounded Kilim River but the boat charter fees for beyond my budget at 250 Ringgit per hour. The best offer is to book on a group ticket. On my visit pre-booked day tours were available for 120 Ringgit. I was tempted by such a wealth of natural wonders. It’s 5pm already and I’m at the opposite corner of the island to Pentai Cenang about 30 kilometres away.
Black Sand Beach..........I head back to Air Hangat and straight over the roundabout looking for Black Sand Beach. I find it and see why it has that name. The blackened sand is a geological phenomenon, the details of which I’m sure to forget. This has to be it for the day as I figure out the best way back to Cenang. Basically it’s back the way I came following the signs to the airport. Its 45 minutes easy riding and I reach Cenang before dark. Despite the noodles I ate at 4pm I take prawn omelet and rice near Cenang Valley Inn, then head back to write up my notes. These are running behind schedule now and I still can’t get an internet connection. I’ll just have to call it a day.

Monday 28 October 2013

Machinchang Cambrian Geoforest Park........... It has rained in the night but now it’s warm with broken cloud. I add more to my log relating to yesterday’s activities but I’m aware this is my last full day in langkawi. I don’t know whether it’s the fresh air of what but I’m struggling to wake before 8am here in Langkawi. Despite this there are no interruptions today and I can get away by mid morning. I’m confining my efforts to Machinchang Cambrian Geoforest Park to the west and north of the island. From my limited knowledge of the Cambrian Period I understand that granite, a very ancient rock was formed. It is present in the jagged peaks of this park. I head north, skirting the airport as I did on my arrival here. I will follow that route into the park through Pantai Kok and beyond. This time it’s done at a more leisurely pace so I can identify such features as Telaga Habour Park, offering magnificent views out to sea, and Perdana Quay. Left at the T junction is Pantai Kok beach, a small but deserted stretch of sand, at the end of which is a slip road leading to group of restaurants. Barely midday I wander into the only one that seems to be open but there are two options, self-service or a better laid out serviced area with menu. The self-service area contains lidded dishes of seafoods, chicken and vegetables. I see the fish curry looks nice and I’m told to help myself. It works for me despite some foreigners turning up in the services section. As just about everywhere else on the island everybody speaks some English if not Thai. With an iced coffee I’m more than sustained as I head off into the park.
Langkawi Cable Car……….As mentioned this park contains some impressive peaks impossible to access by road as at Gunang Raya. Just a few kilometres into the park the cable car built to reach the summit of Gunung Machinchang is quite impressive. As I think back to the Penang Railway this appears in a different league. It’s the same price 30 Ringgit. At the base is the Oriental Village. This houses souvenir shops, restaurants, a food hall and even a small geological display. Other attractions include horse carriage and elephant rides. It’s a bit over the top I thought but seems very popular and finances the park’s facilities which are generally free.
Seven Wells Waterfall……….From here I head a few kilometres further into the mountains reaching the Seven Wells Waterfall. They charge me 1 ringgit to park the motorbike explaining it’s about 10 minutes walk to the falls. From a cluster of small shops a roadway ascends up to the falls but it’s quite steep. It would be better to use the concrete stairway but the climb of 242 metres is certainly worth it, the waterfall over 200 metres vertical drop. What’s remarkable is there are no park fees despite a lot of effort in building the steps, rest areas, seating and toilets. The base of the falls is only half the attraction. Concerned about the distance to the seven wells I read a sign which informs of another 238 metres to the top. OK I’m halfway, another 10-15 minutes. This is good exercise for anyone. The seven wells are at the top of the falls and consist of rock pools carved out of the granite by water erosion. Nearly 500 metres below I left a towel and shorts in the storage space under my seat. Big mistake! There pools are ideal to just chill off especially after the climb. A number of people have made the effort up here but it’s not overcrowded. One could easily take a packed lunch and spend the afternoon here. There is even a toilet block for changing: Most impressive. As it is I devote just 30 minutes and head back down. I want to make it around to the north of the park.
Detai Bay..........I head back down to Pantai Kok and continue to a left turn towards Detai Bay. Just a few kilometres along this road is the crocodile farm: A breeding centre for the trade in skins. I understand there are around 1,000 crocodiles here of various species. Heading on I reach the northern shoreline but there are no sandy beaches here. There is just a pebble beach and to the left the Temurun Waterfall, the highest on the island. It’s just 5 minutes from the road and gazing up at this waterfall brings home the fact that there is little margin between the towering mountains above and the ocean below. As I head on towards Datai Bay there is a road closure. That may be because of a rock fall but it is the end of the road for me and the end of my tour of Langkawi Island. It’s 5pm. As a finale I try to locate another feature known as the ‘field of burnt rice’. This is yet another example of poor signboarding. I must have passed it. Despite the helpful nature of the folk here I don’t see why they have to bear the burden of being tourist guides. It will do for another time. I want to get back to Cenang will before dark and do what many have been doing all along. I’ll take a swim on Cenang Beach. As light fades I return to my usual restaurant for dinner. Returning to Cenang Valley Inn I find the owner still hasn’t cleaned the room but there is a fresh towel. Luckily I’ve purchased water and 3 in 1 coffee for the morning and still have the kettle.
Reflections……….It’s time to reflect on my stay here. The fact that I extended it for an extra night must mean something. Was it the cheap beer, good food, beautiful island scenery? Yes, all these, but it’s also about cost of living. Accommodation, transport and food are all higher here but over the last couple of days I’ve avoided its excesses and kept within my budget for Malaysia. Renting the motorbike was a good decision. It seemed expensive but it’s saved me pounds and the Honda auto quite new, one of the best I have rented. Eating on the road has also helped and I’ve been impressed by the friendliness of local people. Muslims in my country get a bad press but I’ve no issues here. The main problem for Langkawi now is that it may expand to the point that its mystical beauty is swamped by mass tourism: The airport is close by. Right now it’s off season and a number of locations remain undisturbed but soon the island will be packed. What will they be like then? As a convenience to me I’m happy to return to Langkawi and just maybe then I’ll find out!