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BURIRAM TOUR LOG - 1/2 March 2013

Prasat Hin Phnom Rung

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Friday 1 March

Up country……..Although most of the tours featured in this website are by design, the basic itinerary sometimes being prepared months in advance, there are certainly those that seem to come at me out of the blue. With two major tours already completed in the last month and my return to the UK just around the corner I get one last chance to get back on the road. An acquaintance is travelling up country on a long weekend off work and I get an invite. With a chance to travel by car for a change sharing travel expenses it would seem to be a good opportunity but I’m a bit concerned about the destination. The round trip of some 900 kilometres to Buriram province has to be completed in three days.
Hindu icon at Wat Saman Rattanaram I’m only vaguely aware of the reason for the trip although I know it’s religious. Things will be much clearer later. I’m collected as promised around 10 am. Although I know the recommended route to the northeast, it’s not followed adding a couple of hours onto the journey. Instead of heading northeast though Saraburi and on to the Korat plateau we head east towards Chachoengsao along the Chonburi Highway. There’s a stop planned near Chachoengsao. It’s the religious site of Wat Saman Rattanaram click here . While the religious significance is lost on me the temple location is ideal along the Bangkapong River attracting many visitors. All we need now are rides and you’d call it a theme park.
As I’m a guest I cannot comment further but that’s taken a good hour. Not only that it leaves a more difficult route up to the Khorat plateau at Wang Nam Khiao via Prachin Buri and Kabin Buri which takes it into late afternoon. I recommend that we press on leaving options for tomorrow. An overnight stop is made in Nang Rong which leaves 45 minutes drive into Buriram but double that to the final destination. Rutna Resort, Just off the main highway 24 near the hospital is comfortable enough and diner is taken in the town in the market square.

Saturday 2 March

Buriram Railway Station Spiritual guidance........There is no point in hanging around. We’re on the road again by 8 am. Buriram offers chance for breakfast, a fuel stop and well, my first interest of the day. I visit the train station in the town. A sprinter train stops on its way to Bangkok. Another unit waits for departure. I thought I was immune to the condition of Thai trains but this one is of a type unfamiliar to me, it’s that old. I’ve seen better in scrap yards.
Now it’s time to head north to the final destination. Curiously my travel companion has never visited this area before which makes the reason for the trip even more curious. I have a map and confirm the direction to Satuek which is on the border with the next province of Roi Et. I’m getting curious. There is nothing in this more remote part of Thailand that suggests any important religious site. We don’t even enter the town itself but turn onto a village road that even turns into a dirt track in places. Final directions received we head into a small village and under an old archway that signifies a religious site. It’s confirmed that there is no grand temple here. No majestic chedi, no glittering viharn housing an imposing Buddha image. There just seems to be a collection of shacks and a simple prayer hall. I’m still confused but gazing out of one of the wooden buildings is a monk. Apparently we’re expected. What follows I can only describe as spiritual guidance. The reception lasts at least 30 minute as my companion seeks the monk’s wisdom on a number of issues ranging from family, health and work prospects. Each time a question is asked the monk responds first with a short period of meditation or a prayer following by his judgement. His attention turns to me for a while, one of the issues discussed being heath. Curiously he does not condemn drink but stresses that drinking of rice spirits should be avoided. Otherwise he believes a longer life is possible but sees the year ahead not without problems. In his judgement and disposition he wins my respect. This is reinforced by his humble abode, a far cry from the wealth that I frequently witness in my travels. It’s time to leave: the job is done but the monk who goes by the name of Lung Tha Pathom extends his friendship by inviting my return. I don’t regret coming here in the least. It’s time for lunch.
New i-mobile Stadium home of Buriram United FC Heading back through Buriram I’m curious about the prominent display of banners and advertising relating to an attraction which I had earlier dismissed when I conducted online searches. On the ring road to my left is signposted, Thunder Castle (stadium). My curiosity causes me to stop to take photographs of the New i-mobile Stadium, the home of Buriram United FC. As I follow this lead I understand the excitement around the city. Buriram United are triple champions 2011 making them the premier league club in Thailand.
More ancient ruins........The trip itinerary moves over to me after lunch. I’m really not prepared for sightseeing at short notice. The major problem is that while I can quickly draw up a list of attraction, finding out where they all are is not so easy. I don’t have local knowledge on my side this time. Prasat Hin Phnom Rung Prasat Meung Tam I do the only sensible thing and head to the principal tourist site at Prasat Hin Phnom Rung which is a Khmer sanctuary dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva of the Age of Angkor sitting atop a rocky volcanic outcrop long extinct. I had actually visited this site before but so long ago that I could hardly view it in the same perspective as I can now especially after my recent visit to Angkor Wat. Prasat Phnom Rung is now part of an historic park that includes Prasat Muang Tam a religious Hindu monument which is also dedicated to the God Shiva. This sanctuary was not opened to the public until 1997, well after I last visited here. Looking around these two monuments occupies most of the afternoon. As with Angkor Wat there are a number of other ruins scattered around and while it’s impossible to visit these today I have managed to gather information from the tourist office which could be valuable for future visits. It’s after 4.30 pm and decision time. Still some 350 kilometres from Bangkok we head back. I’m not inclined to extend my travels further so this brief trip will occupy just two days. After a stop for diner in Pak Chong we eventually arrive in Bangkok a little after 10 pm. I’ve bought myself a valuable day of rest.