MARCHES PAST TOUR SUMMARY

AYUTTHAYA HISTORICAL CITY - 4 October 2013
Buddha images at Wat Phanan Choeng

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Overview……..A study of civilizations provides a fascinating insight into the forces that create them verses the forces that seek to destroy them. The Ayutthaya Kingdom of central Thailand 1350 to 1767 is no exception. So often a creating force is down to one man’s vision, a natural and gifted leader. He seeks not only to preserve prosperity for his people but to expand his realm invariably at the expense of others. In the case of Ayutthaya its founding father was King U-Tong. In the 14th century a powerful Siamese Kingdom already existed based at Sukhothai to the north but the dominant civilization at this time was the Khmer Empire which controlled huge swathes of central Thailand with its principal city state based at Lopburi. This century would see great turmoil however and lead to the fall of the mighty Khmer Empire based at Angkor as constant pressure from Siamese forces grew. King U-Tong would defeat his staunch enemy and create a new dynasty based at Ayutthaya.
Thereafter religious, cultural and economic influence grew but it is clear that trade became a vital factor as Ayutthaya became a major player on the international scene. Trade with nations such as Portugal, Holland and Japan flourished from the 16th century and Ayutthaya became more cosmopolitan as trading settlements were accepted, the basis for open trade establishing a long tradition with major powers which still exists to this day.
However it was not these trading partners that was to cause the fall of this civilization but a more immediate and local threat: Not from the east this time but from the west. An ever menacing threat had developed from the Burmese. After a number of unsuccessful attempts the Burmese sent a huge invading force into central Siam destroying the capital, looting its treasures and making off with its inhabitants. However the Burmese would not become a dominating force in Siam. Within a decade they would be rolled back and a new dynasty created, not in Ayutthaya this time but at Thonburi near Bangkok.
This brief introduction is the minimum requirement for those who plan to visit the Ayutthaya Historical Park in order to truly reflect the power and influence the city once possessed. However much can be learnt from the archeology and architecture itself. For those who travel beyond the island confines it will become clear how extensive this city once was. Modern day Ayutthaya sits easily within its footprint. Further examination of the architecture also reveals the changes over centuries, each ruler adopting different styles however subtle. In the early period strong Khmer influence can be seen in the design of prangs such as the one at Wat Ratchaburana but by the middle kingdom Ayutthaya had a unique architecture more apparent at Wat Si Samphet. Construction technique of brick and render is also attributable to the classic Ayutthaya Period.

Photographs are included in the tour pages Click for more photos

Itiniary……..For full report click on travel log
Day 1, Bangkok to Ayutthaya and return.
Excursions.....(These were entirely by motorbike).
Wat Phanan Choeng, Dutch Settlement, Japanese Settlement, Wat Phra Ram, Wat Chaiwatthanaram, Wat Phattai Sawan, Wat Kasattratirat, Wat Lokayasutharam, Wat Na Phra Men, Wat Salapoon Worawtham
Weather
Overast in the morning, sunny spells in the afternoon, hot and humid 30-35c.
Dining out
Recommended: Traditional noodle bar opposite Wat Ratchaburana. Many choices near Hua Ro Market
Transport used
Bangkok aircon. city bus 554, 22 baht (minivan 25 baht) to and from Rangsit
minivan Rangsit to Ayutthaya and return, 40 baht each way
motorbike rental 250 baht/day (I paid 200 for the afternoon)