Lopburi City, 20 February 2026

I cannot fault the accommodation here at Benjatara Boutique Hotel, located in a quieter area of Lopburi. The price is at the lower end of what we normally pay, even without breakfast, but here the breakfast is included. Let's just check out what that consists of. In the breakfast hall there is the usual toast and beverages, then a choice of warm food. Unusually, there is no American-style breakfast, only Thai, but it's good enough for us. This evening there is some special entertainment to look forward to, but for the rest of the day there are options, including some attractions we've not visited before.
We head north into a part of Lopburi province that's new to us, looking for an iconic temple, but pause our journey to visit another. Built on the side of a hill, Wat Siri Chanthanimit Worawihan, or Wat Khao Phra Ngam, is an ancient temple with little evidence remaining of its past. It was long abandoned until rediscovered and developed in the early 20th century.
We can now head for Wat Khao Wong Phrachan, dominated by a huge gleaming Buddha image on the hillside. It is reached by a winding road to a point with outstanding views of the plain below.
At Wat Khao Wong Phrachan, the main attraction and challenge is climbing the approximately 3,790 steps (about 1.7 km trail) to reach the top of the mountain. The hike is moderate to strenuous, often taking 1-2 hours or more depending on fitness level. The path is mostly shaded with steps that aren't too steep, and there are small shops selling drinks and snacks along the way (prices increase as you ascend).
It's another very hot day as we turn back but find yet another temple, one with archaeological significance. Wat Phrom Thin Tai contains a prehistoric burial site. Unfortunately there is little to see here, as after the dig, the pit was filled in, while the small museum here is closed. It's been a good day so far, but just maybe there's something missing. We drive via small roads to a train station on the State Railway's Northern Line.
At Nong Tao Railway Station I find what I was expecting: A modern station completely rebuilt as part of the Northern Line reconstruction program. The main hiccup here is that the GPS has managed to lead us to the wrong side of the track at the station building. That's happened before. The likely explanation for the misdirection is the fact that the station only recently fully opened.
Finding my way over the tracks, I am fortunate to see a couple of passing trains but wasn't expecting to be invited into the control room by the station master. What I find is one simple console graphically showing movement on this section of line. As the line is now automated, this station requires just one SRT staff member to monitor traffic, issue tickets, and take care of customer service. At a quiet station of this type, we just feel the stationmaster is quite relieved to have someone to talk with, and my partner is smart enough to ask all the right questions. It's now mid-afternoon, and we've had no time to take lunch, so we head back to the city. It isn't quite what I was expecting, but we find ourselves in BIG 'C' Lopburi and go for something more Western at Santa Fe.
Ideally, I would have liked to return to the hotel to recharge my phone battery, but I can't forget what we've come here for.
Today is the 26th King Narai Festival taking place at the palace built by King Narai in the 17th century. While his palace is now in ruin, the buildings located in a huge compound make for an ideal place to commemorate the achievements of the warrior king.
We head straight for the Palace along streets crammed with food vendors. There is a real party atmosphere here. Inside the palace walls, they are getting ready for the festival, which starts at 7:30 PM. In the meantime there's something we have to do. I'd wanted this to happen for our wedding in 2023, but better late than never, I'm now in traditional period costume contemporary with the Ayutthaya period. We really do look the part as we arrive in the palace grounds. It wasn't that long ago we were last here. Inside the grounds the atmosphere is electric and quite literally so, as the light shows are incredibly beautiful. It's all building up to something really special. To say the organisers have put in a shift here is an understatement. A huge crowd waits patiently for the celebrations to start in multiple locations inside the grounds, yet these celebrations need to start on a somber note, as there is first a tribute to the late Queen Sirikit, whose body is still lying in state. With this accomplished, the main event can begin. What follows is a scene taken right out of Shakespeare. Actors appear on a stage appropriately in front of one of the large halls of the former palace. With incredible precision, the story of King Narai's rise to power as one of the great Ayutthaya kings is projected onto the gable wall of one of the great halls. The vivid colours of the projections are mesmerising, a remarkable feat of Thai art and design. It's a chance in a lifetime for me to be here, yet with this spectacle set to continue on an annual basis, I'm all in for more of this. Of course, parading around in traditional costume is inspiring and just adds to the collective importance of this event with so many others deeply engaged as well.
As a footnote, this event is free. The catering income alone has added hugely to the wealth of the community. For us the cost of hiring costumes and makeup and for a professional photographer is well less than a night out in the UK for little reward. Our reward tonight is incalculable. Late Februarys from now on will be bookmarked in my diary now for sure. Of course it's a late night after a very long day. It will take time to catch up with things.

Source: Visit