It's good again to sit out on the balcony with an early coffee. If only we had replicated that right on the beach front. However, we are relocating later, and I'm hoping for something close to that. Breakfast follows, sat out in the morning air, but soon we need to pack again. It's around 10:00 AM when we are ready to depart.
The room we decided on is just a couple of kilometres from KohChang FueangFah but it's too early to check in, so off we go exploring. As we head back past the ferry pier, I'm interested in how things seem compared to our first visit here so many years ago. As we continue down the western side of the island, it seems Katoon is only interested in reaching the furthest point. OK, let's see how that works. It's just a half hour to Bang Bao. My only recollection of the place was the meal we had here that confirmed how relatively expensive things were compared to on the mainland.
When we reach Bang Bao, it's far too early for lunch, but there's something else I'll remember the village for. 60 baht for parking is unheard of in most other locations. However, it soon becomes clear that a lot has changed here. With so many souvenir shops added to the seafood restaurants I remember, this once sleepy village is now a major tourist attraction on the island. To get to the lighthouse at the end of the pier requires a route march through the arcade of shops. At this time, all I can do is take photos. There is nothing here that we need. We now head back ticking of reference points that have familiar names without checking them out. The list is as follows.
Lonely Beach is one of the island's most famous spots, especially among backpackers and those seeking a laid-back, party-friendly vibe. It earned its 'lonely' name years ago when it was remote and hard to reach (only by a rough trail or boat), offering a true sense of solitude. Today, it's far from empty: it's evolved into Koh Chang's main backpacker and party hub.
Kai Bae Viewpoint is one of the most popular and scenic lookouts on Koh Chang. Located on the west coast near Kai Bae Beach, this viewpoint offers stunning panoramic vistas over the coastline, turquoise waters, and offshore islands.
Kai Bae Beach is one of the most popular and well-balanced beaches on Koh Chang. It's located on the west coast, between Klong Prao Beach to the north and Lonely Beach to the south. The beach is a beautiful stretch of soft golden sand, around 2.3 metres long, lined with palm trees for natural shade.
Klong Prao Beach is one of the most popular and beautiful beaches on Koh Chang. It's widely regarded as the island's longest beach, stretching about 4 km (around 2.5 miles) of fine white sand, backed by lush green mountains and coconut palms.
White Sand Beach is the island's most popular and developed beach. It's famous for its long stretch of soft, powdery white sand, clear turquoise waters, and vibrant atmosphere. The beach stretches about 2.3 km, with the best white sand and swimming conditions on Koh Chang. It's the first major beach you reach after arriving by ferry, located on the northwestern coast of the island.
In the space of an hour and a half, we've traveled back along the whole length of Koh Chang's western coast, stopping midway for lunch. In that time I've formed a different opinion of the island from the one on my first visit, and it's not positive. The most obvious thing to know about Koh Chang is that it's almost all mountainous, and that restricts the number of beaches the island has. Despite this, tourists come in great numbers. I would say that as much as 95% of activity is along the western coastline and all funneled into the cramped space around the coast. This means that it replicates other places such as Phuket and Koh Samui. The island can only support so much. I feel there is a tipping point where staying on Koh Chang becomes too expensive compared with the mainland, and there is evidence that some tourists are looking for alternatives. For my part, I've seen this all before, and that's why I thought the eastern side of the island would suit me better.
Since we left Bang Bao, I have tried to replicate the experience I had those years ago but see it as impossible. Accommodation on the island has expanded to the extent that there are limited access points to the beach. It's not for me now.
We head back to our arranged accommodation on the east coast, and the difference could not be more stark. At Good View Resort I have a problem. It's just too quiet. Located right on the shore amidst palm trees, it seems ideal. The room, although quite small, is cozy with everything we need. The bungalows are well maintained and the land kept tidy but where are the people? We are the only ones here. On the shoreline there is a restaurant building now closed. The atmosphere is ghostly. If I wished for peace and quiet and a place to relax, we'll, this place fits that to a glove. The question is, will my partner agree with me? For dinner, at least we can walk up to the main road and buy something to eat on the porch.
Source: Visit