So Christmas is over, at least here in Thailand, with the routine that I've been accustomed to for so many years shattered. Even the meal we had last night, as grand as it was, took place at the wrong time of day, and that had repercussions. A good night's sleep was denied me through eating such rich food so close to bedtime. From today I must try to eat more healthy food and make this a habit, even though I'm still travelling around Thailand for another week. During that time we will be visiting three more provinces that are familiar, but there's no desire right now to commit to anything other than keeping to life in the slow lane.
Today we are moving into the next province, heading for Uttaradit, which is comfortably less than 2 hours away, but the prospect of an easy day soon disappears. As we pack to begin our travels, my pulse is high, something I suffer from. It seems to be associated with the heavy meal, likely some allergic reaction. As I get in the car, I'm irritable, just not into doing anything today. However, Katoon already has a list of attractions to visit, and I ask her not to involve me at the moment. I then close my eyes and fall asleep in the car seat. I'm still drowsy as Katoon stops the car. I see we've arrived at a temple, but I tell her to take my phone and explore without me. I will have to review what she has found later. I must have been out for a good half hour, and when I finally come to my senses, I feel much better and begin to concentrate again. I begin to study the photos Katoon has taken from the earlier stop and realise I've missed something important. The temple is a significant ancient ruin, and I must mention it here from my searches.
'Mueang Bang Khlang in Sawankhalok District, Sukhothai Province, is an ancient settlement with roots tracing back to the Dvaravati period (7th-11th centuries) and of significant historical importance during the early Sukhothai era (13th century). The site is considered one of the key locations in the founding of the Sukhothai Kingdom, often regarded as the first independent Thai kingdom. It is mentioned in ancient inscriptions'.
On the one hand I'm glad Katoon stopped here, but I'm still saddened that I didn't view the ruins. This is not just a single ruin but the site of an ancient town. By the time we reach the next stop, I'm in better spirits.
We reach Sawankolok, a familiar name to me, but my recollections are vague. We park up and start to explore on foot. Sawankolok is one of those towns that have defied the rush to modernise, its narrow streets filled with timber-framed houses, home to a variety of handicrafts that have stood the test of time. It was an important town in the Sukhothai era and a place famous for its Sangkhalok ceramics. In the town you will find charming street art murals and a railway station lost in time. We find a most popular noodle shop, which seems to be the focus of this small community, while across the street is the Yom River, no doubt a reason the town exists. We walk to the station, where we find it closed, cut off from the main line while a new bridge is constructed. It is expected to come alive again in mid-2026.
We've now been on the road for several hours, and it seems Katoon is not finished yet as she continues north, heading into the mountains that divide the plains from Thailand's northern provinces. By mid-afternoon we arrive at Ban Na Ton Chan.
Ban Na Ton Chan is a charming rural village in Si Satchanalai District. It offers award-winning community-based tourism focused on authentic Thai village life, traditional crafts, and sustainable experiences. Here you will find traditional weaving and enterprises that have been handed down for generations. It offers a unique experience to witness rural life. We rest up in a local coffee shop and just switch off. Before we leave, there is an attraction of note nearby.
At the north end of the village is a 200 metre pathway to a local treasure. The Bamboo Walkway Through Rice Field is as it says. It's an elevated bamboo path winding through vast, lush rice paddies, offering visitors peaceful immersion in rural Thai life with stunning views of endless green fields and opportunities to observe traditional farming. It's time to head back.
We join HWY 102 heading east, crossing the provincial border with Uttaradit. It's a short drive from here into the city. While the reason for being in Sukhothai has been previously stated, we are also up north to celebrate the New Year. There will be a family reunion beforehand, but we have three days to spare. Considering options, I did not wish to travel too far away from a direct route to Katoon's ancestral home and came up with Uttaradit as a suitable resting place. The province has a wealth of natural attractions to keep one occupied. We will be based here for three nights.
By now, the idea of a short trip from Sukhothai disappeared a long time ago. Later in the afternoon now, we might as well make a final visit. We head for Uttaradit railway station, where there is a service due within half an hour. I patiently wait but miss the announcement of an arriving train. I have to react swiftly to capture a train arriving for Den Chai. Checking the board, I see the 111 Rapid service is running an hour late. It's a bonus as a local train from Sila-At arrives shortly after. For once I get a bit of luck. We now head for our accommodation in the city, first picking up some street food to eat in the room.
The Red Heritage Hotel is located in an alley and is quite hard to find in the heart of the city. It's not the preferred location, but more rural locations in this picturesque province are rather expensive. We always hope that our accommodation ticks the main boxes, but we are taken aback by a phone call before we even arrive asking for confirmation of our booking. We think that's a bit of cheek since we have paid a deposit more than enough to cover a single night. Was the lady looking for an opportunity to make a tidy profit? Fortunately, when we arrive, all is well. The room is spacious but plainly decorated, with all the boxes I expect having been ticked for the location we chose. We soon tuck into our growing larder of food and prepare for the night.
As the day ends, I wonder how I survived such a day of sightseeing, which I'm sure has surpassed any previous day on this visit to Thailand.
Source: Visit