So, it's time to return to Bangkok after the weekend football fest. Overnight, I actually slept well, but now it's time to put together a breakfast, not bothering to find out where we were told we could get a coffee. As regards bringing my notes up to date, I've had to improvise; there's just nowhere convenient to place my laptop, so compromise is what we've endured at BH Place. We won't be using it again. I guess the lesson here is to try harder when pre-booking accommodation.
Alright, so what is the plan for today? Even as late in the morning as it is, we could still return to Bangkok, but let's continue where we left off yesterday with another temple.
We cross over to the west of the city again, locating Wat Tham Khao Pun. This temple was noted in the distance while visiting Wat Tham Mangkorn Thong yesterday. The attraction for us at this temple is the golden chedi on the top of the hill above. To reach this rocky peak, they've installed a metal staircase, which is not too challenging for me. The chedi, which is visible for miles, stands on a viewing platform allowing for a panoramic view of the countryside around. Directly below is the Kwae Noi river, the Khao Pun railway station, then views of Kanchanaburi city and the mountains to the west. During the climb and at the summit there is quite a breeze blowing during what is now Thai winter, if you can call it that. Down at the base of the hill is the entrance to the cave, but curiously, we don't investigate.
Using Grok, I find that 'Wat Tham Khao Pun has nine lit-up chambers with Buddhist and Hindu shrines mixed with natural rock formations; super serene and a bit adventurous. It's tied to history too, from the Ayutthaya era and during World War Two: it is near a Japanese field hospital for the Death Railway prisoners.'
At this point I have to make another call. I had planned to head back to Nakhon Pathom and retrace my steps on the journey to Ratchaburi on the first day using the railway. However, in the interests of adding new material to this website, I decided to head north to locate another temple in Kanchanaburi province. Despite numerous visits here, this province is huge and continues to throw up surprises. I'm heading into an area previously unexplored and to another temple, but first a simple roadside lunch.
Wat Thipsukhontharam is a large Buddhist park renowned for housing Thailand's tallest standing bronze Buddha statue and surrounded by lush, beautifully maintained gardens. Located in the Huai Krachao District on over 300 rai (about 120 acres) of land, it serves as a serene spiritual site blending natural beauty with architectural grandeur, drawing visitors seeking tranquillity, photographic opportunities, and cultural reverence. However, on the occasion of our visit, these qualities are not acknowledged, as despite the presence of a huge car park, there is hardly anybody here. Of course it is a Monday, which could explain it. But otherwise I have to ask the question, why is it here? We stopped at a small lake in the grounds, but we are already aware of another significant temple not far away.
Wat Sa Long Ruea is a historic Buddhist temple dating back to the Ayutthaya period, some 400-450 years ago, but all that remains are two small brick structures, one a prang and one a later-style chedi. The temple lies in a peaceful rural setting and is celebrated for its unique architectural features, including the world's largest replica of the Suphanhong royal barge. The temple blends ancient heritage with modern expansions, offering visitors a mix of spiritual reflection, cultural exhibits, and striking visuals, making it a hidden gem near more famous Kanchanaburi sites. I've now visited three temples which weren't in the script and set sail back to the city. Now in mid-afternoon, we should reach Bangkok before dark. After previous exertions, I lounge back in the passenger seat and close my eyes. When they reopen, I see we're in Suphanburi province, having made quite a detour compared with the route we took on Day 1. I sense that Katoon had stopped the car, so where are we exactly? Certainly the route back from this direction is unfamiliar, and Katoon has seized on an opportunity to find another significant Buddhist site, actually a substantial Buddha temple complex.
Wat Phai Rong Wua is an 'open-air Buddhist temple complex in Amphoe Song Phi Nong. Spanning hundreds of rai of lush countryside, it is celebrated for its colossal Buddha statues, the world's largest bronze religious structures, and immersive depictions of Buddhist cosmology, including vivid heaven and hell gardens. Founded as a modest rural site, it evolved into a monumental 'Buddhist wonderland' blending spiritual devotion, moral education, and eclectic iconography from multiple faiths, attracting pilgrims, families, and curious travellers for its blend of awe-inspiring scale and cautionary tales.' I wish I could write this stuff instead of using AI.
The temple's roots date to the early 20th century as a neglected village temple, but its transformation began in 1936 when Luang Phor Khom (also spelt Phor Khom), a revered meditation master and guru monk, became abbot.
So that's all, folks. Four new temples to be added to my database. We head back, knowing that we are on the wrong side of Bangkok and the reality of heavy traffic. The final act of the day comes with the return to Soi 6, Kanchanapisek, for dinner, as we did the very first night I arrived back in Thailand.
Finally, I should clarify the situation here regarding 'khon rak krung'. This is a government initiative to support the economy by helping local people. Those who qualify receive credit amounting to 2,000 baht, which can be used for meals out with a 50% discount. The credit can be used any time but is limited to 200 baht/day. Any unused credit can be carried over. Such wisdom is sadly lacking back in the UK.
Source: Visit