Thankfully, I've had a better night as my cough and cold is on its way out. Today I have a decision to make, but first there is a dental appointment across town in Bang Bua Thong.
The 10.00 am appointment is scheduled but, was supposed to be a routine check-up after a lot of recent work. However, the temporary denture fitted has broken with one tooth lost. With so little time left before I return to the UK, I just wonder what the dentist will do. Sat back in the chair, it's clear he's planning something as he beavers away for an hour, finally producing a new denture. The problem is that he's had to improvise and use a spare one, but the end result is nowhere near a good as the original one. The main effect is that I cannot eat with it. I soon realise that even with a tooth missing, I could manage much better with he old one. I'm sure he's done his best to produce something that looks acceptable but, it's not at all practical and I'm seeing little use for it considering I had missing teeth for a long time. The situation now it that the bone grafts for implants need several more months to fuse correctly. It means that the work can't be completed until I return, probably in November. It is what it is and I won't starve though.
With the appointment ended, it's now a question of finding lunch and I feel well enough to continue plans that were originally laid out for today. We leave for Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya province and check out a restaurant on the bank of the Chao Phraya River called Rimnam Bangsai in Bang Sai district. This restaurant offers traditional Thai food in glorious setting by the river. I'm always cautious about eating a big meal while travelling on the road and here they don't help matters by producing huge portions. We cannot get through it and some ends up in a doggie bag. What else I can say is that it's amazing value for money with a Thai curry, omelette and fried vegetables.
The plan today is that we would like to attend a festival in Ayutthaya in the evening. The worry is that it will be a long day and how best to fill the afternoon. I'll just have to see how it goes, but I already have an attractions list concentrating on the ancient city.
We enter the city from the southwest. Here, outside the city island, I'm looking to add more ruins to my list from successive visits over many years. The point is the the ancient city was massive. It's hard to imagine the scale of it, especially considering the fact that almost all structures that can be identified, were religious, but people had to eat, sleep and run businesses. A quick calculation shows that ruins from the Ayutthaya period can be found covering around 25 sq. kilometres. Today I'm planning to cover the ruins outside the island to the south.
First, Wat Deang/Wat Nang Krai are two temple ruin that are lost in undergrowth according to Google Map. I wouldn't be surprised to see more reveal themselves in the future.
We move on to Wat Tha Hoi which is described as a defunct temple located off the city island in the southern area in Samphao Lom Sub-district. It is part of the historical landscape of Ayutthaya, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The name 'Tha Hoi' translates to 'Monastery of the Landing of Shellfish,' suggesting a historical or geographical connection to the area's waterways or local resources. There is limited detailed information about Wat Tha Hoi compared to more prominent temples like Wat Mahathat or Wat Phra Si Sanphet, as it is considered a minor ruin. It is noted as a restored ruin, but specific details about its architecture, history, or current state are sparse. The temple is referenced in historical records as part of the Mon settlement area, indicating cultural significance for the Mon people in Ayutthaya’s history. Very close by is Wat Tawed. This is a more substantial ruin.
Wat Tawed is a serene Buddhist temple known for its intricate architecture and peaceful surroundings. The temple features delicate carvings and vibrant murals that narrate Buddhist history. Its impressive chedi, often adorned with yellow robes, stands as a symbol of reverence. Visitors can explore the inner sanctum where monks conduct ceremonies and offer blessings. The temple grounds are well-maintained, with lush gardens providing a tranquil escape from the bustling city.
The archaeological excavation here in 2015 assumed that this temple was built between the 16th and 17th centuries. The architectural components are the Ubosot (Ordination hall), Viharn (Sermon hall) and Mon pagoda of octagonal shape. Between the 17th and 18th centuries the use of this area was developed and expanded. The former architectures were restored and more newer buildings were built including a footway and pier near the canal. All the traces of new buildings were assumed to be the residence of Chaofah Kromluangyothathip, King Narai's daughter, according to the Royal Chronicle records.
It's now well into afternoon and there are still a few sites I'd like to visit. One in particular, I need to visit soon as it closes at 4:00 pm. We reach the Portuguese Archaeology Museum on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River. On a previous trip I visited both the Japanese and Dutch settlements on the opposite bank. This is evidence of trade between Ayutthaya and other nations in the mid to late Ayutthaya period. However, I missed out the Portuguese settlement which represents the earliest contact between Ayutthaya and Europeans which was right at the beginning of the 16th century. The museum here is curious, the facade clearly of Catholic origin. Behind, in a covered building though, I'm surprised to see that this is a burial site with pits opened for examination. Otherwise, the building which is not in the best condition is used to relate the story of how the Portuguese set up store here even providing the king with weapons and soldiers.
My Grok search reveals that, 'The Portuguese Settlement in Ayutthaya, also known as Campos Portugues or Baan Portuget, is a historical site rather than a traditional museum, located on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River in the Samphao Lom sub-district, south of the city island. It was established in 1540 when King Chai Racha granted land to the Portuguese, the first Europeans to arrive in Ayutthaya in 1511, primarily as merchants and mercenaries. The settlement, once home to around 3,000 people, was the largest Western community in the region and included three Catholic churches: St. Peter (San Petro) of the Dominican Order, St. Paul of the Jesuit Order, and a Franciscan church.
Today, the site features a small memorial museum near the ruins of the St. Peter Church (also called St. Dominic’s Church in the Ayutthaya period), the first Dominican church built in Thailand in 1540. The museum, housed in a small white building, contains information boards detailing the history of Thai-Portuguese relations, focusing on their contributions to trade, weaponry, architecture, and military support. Excavations in 1984 uncovered over 200 skeletons in a graveyard, now covered with a roof but visible to visitors, along with artifacts like tobacco pipes, coins, pottery, gem bracelets, crosses, and rosary beads. The site offers a glimpse into the convergence of Thai and Portuguese architecture and culture. It is noted though that the graves may be submerged during monsoon season'.
Despite its modest appearance, there's a lot to take in here. Moving up the western side of the Chao Phraya, I'm looking for another ruin and end up at the end of a farm track in a wooded glade. Here is a monk's residence and a monk with his dog is quite curious as to what I'm doing here but right behind is the base of a smaller temple ruin. On base are a number of robed images of the Buddha. This ruin is known as Wat Phaya Kong. Again I get amazing help from Grok.
Wat Phraya Kong is a lesser-known, unrestored ruin of a Buddhist monastery located off Ayutthaya’s city island in the southern area, specifically in the Samphao Lom Sub-district. Positioned on the east bank of a now-defunct north-south canal near Wat Phraya Phan, it also lies close to a former east-west waterway, placing it at a historical canal crossroad west of the old Portuguese enclave. The temple’s name and its proximity to Wat Phraya Phan remain mysterious, with possible historical ties to Nakhon Pathom, though this connection is speculative.
The site features two distinct architectural formations and a notable collection of sizable stone Buddha statues, many still in their original positions, suggesting a gallery hall once existed. Unlike the typical brick-and-mortar construction of Ayutthaya temples, these statues were meticulously hand-crafted from stone. Some remain intact, while others show signs of looting, with faces removed or heads fragmented. Two large white stone Buddha heads from Wat Phraya Kong were discovered broken, likely for easier transport by looters, and were later recovered by the Fine Arts Department. These, along with a similar head from Wat Khun Phrom, are now displayed at the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum in Ayutthaya, though the pieces were mixed up and do not fully align.
Historical records suggest that some of Wat Phraya Kong’s large Buddha statues may have been relocated from Nakhon Pathom’s Wat Phra Men during the reigns of King Ramathibodi I (1350–1369 CE) or King Ramathibodi II (1491–1529 CE). The temple appears on Phraya Boran Ratchathanin’s 1926 CE map and has been documented on Fine Arts Department maps since 1974 CE. It is managed by the Department of Religious Affairs'.
It's interesting that the above mentions Wat Phraya Phan which is geolocated just a short distance away. Again there is a lot mentioned in the historical records but the co-ordinates given lead me to an open field. Curious.
With this, I'm happy to close my searches in this part of the Heritage Site and hand over to my partner who's religious convictions are greater than mine. I mentioned entertainment earlier, but that's not until after dark. There's still time for other visits and Katoon makes her way around to the north of the city island, locating an historical temple. But I soon realise it's one I've been to before so at Wat Na Phra Men Rachikaram, I just take a few recent photos and rely on past research to deal with it.
By this time, Katoon has taken over and finds another old ruin. I didn't know she had a list, but her contribution is most welcome as we stop at Wat Chow Ya. My findings are that this is a more substantial temple ruin so I'm surprised Grok hasn't uncovered more about it. Fortunately, there is onsite information provided by the Fine Arts Department. It's stated that 'Wat Chao Ya is located on the bank of the Sra Bao Canal ('sra bao' means 'a water lily pond'). At present this monastery is divided into two parts by a road. The plan of the monastery consists of the principle bell shaped stupa, the shrine at the front and two-story buildings in western style at the back.
In the Ayutthaya Chronicle there is no mention about the time period in which Wat Chao Ya was built. However, according to archaeological evidence, this temple might have been built in the early Ayutthaya period and abandoned after the invasion of the Burmese army in 1767 AD.
Finding a larger ruin after some recent attempts is pleasing and we're not finished yet as Wat Phra Ngam is not far away. Although there is onsite information at this ruin, I refer again to a Grok source which is more expansive.
Wat Phra Ngam, also known as the 'Temple of the Magnificent Buddha Images' or Wat Cha Ram, is an ancient, abandoned temple located in Ayutthaya, specifically in the Khlong Sa Bua Sub-district, north of the main city island.
The exact construction date is unknown, but it's believed to date back to the early Ayutthaya period (pre-17th century) due to its architectural style. It was mentioned in the poem 'Niras Nakhonsawan' from King Narai's reign (1656–1688), suggesting it existed before this time. The temple was abandoned after Ayutthaya's fall in 1767. Archaeological findings, including pre-Ayutthayan sculptures of crouching deer, bronze, and earthen Buddha images, indicate its historical significance, with some artifacts now housed in the National Museum.
Key Features include:
1) The eastern entrance gate, known as the 'Portal of Time,' where a Bodhi tree's roots envelop the brick arch, creating a photogenic spot reminiscent of Angkor temples in Cambodia.
2) An octagonal pagoda (chedi) 3) An ordination hall (ubosot) with four entries, satellite chedis, and a moat: Evidence of multiple renovations suggests a newer pagoda was built over an older, smaller one.
4) A pond nearby allowing visitors to feed or release fish for merit-making.
Such additional historical finds are most welcome but also begs the question of how much more is there to discover in this incredible city. It's not for today, but I just have to search harder. I'm clearly not done here yet. Not by a long shot. At daylight fades, it's time for the main event of the day as we roll right into the heart of the ancient city and parking chaos.
The Ayutthaya Khon Festival 2025, also referred to as the 6th Ayutthaya Khon Festival, takes place from April 24 to 29, 2025, in the Ayutthaya Historical Park, specifically behind Wat Mahathat. This cultural event celebrates the traditional Thai masked dance-drama known as Khon, which depicts stories from the Ramayana (Ramakien in Thai). The festival is set against the backdrop of Ayutthaya’s ancient ruins, blending historical ambiance with vibrant performances and gastronomic experiences.
Highlights are:
1) Daily Khon performances showcasing the Ramayana epic, typically starting in the evening.
2) Cultural shows, including Thai musical performances, stage plays, and contemporary acts.
3) A Ramayana procession, expected to be a grand event similar to previous years, likely occurring on one of the festival days.
4) Gastronomic offerings featuring local Ayutthaya cuisine, such as roti sai mai, traditional curries, and Pad Thai.
5) Retro-style markets, exhibitions, photo backdrops, and DIY booths for an immersive experience.
6) Free admission to all performances, making it accessible to both locals and tourists.
Arriving before 7.00 pm, we've plenty of time to look around. Being the 1st day of the festival, it is a quieter day than expected on the weekend. Today there is plenty of seating space and well organised with mobile toilets, video screens and even drone footage. Although not the responsibility of the organisers, it would be a major bonus if the local authority were to introduce a park and ride scheme. Walking a large distance to the event is not convenient for older people like me. At the end of the day, literally, it's been a great experience being here and my warmest thanks go to the performers for doing an amazing job for free.
Unfortunately, we cannot stay to the end of the performance as we're still over a hour from Bangkok. The day has had once minor upset which I'm too embarrassed to mention but considering how I felt yesterday, I've survived it well. We return to the residence after 12 hours all told. Tomorrow is a rest day to catch up with things.

Source: Visit