Ayutthaya - 13 February 2025

Today there's a chance that there will be nothing to report after the exertions of yesterday, but I have an arranged appointment on my 'to do' list and that will fill the morning. In short, I have decided to prepare for dental implants instead of dentures which I hate. I'm hoping to get a real deal at a dental clinic in Bang Bua Thong which I've used before. I arrive expecting a root extraction, but this doesn't happen. Instead, there are impressions taken and a forward appointment made. I'm quite happy that I can secure treatment at a fraction of the cost than in the UK. At 11 am I now have the whole afternoon free though I'm still reluctant to over commit, but there is one place I would like to be to register my first visit to the railway and to capture more videos for my YouTube channel, but first an early lunch to consider other options.
We now head north from Bang Bua Thong into Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Province arriving at Bang Pa-In Railway Station where I chalked up some success before. Using real-time data, I hope to see two perhaps three arriving trains. In the end I just make it for two Ordinary services to and from Surin and that is already a bonus. This good fortune has consumed little time as it's still early afternoon. I had deferred any further plans to see how I felt and now that time has arrived.
While I was still in the UK, I had a plan in mind for another visit to the Ayutthaya Historical Park, but this could happen anytime. The park is so vast that most foreigners can only sample what's there, concentrating on the most import temple ruins. For me, I've been to Ayutthaya many times and this would be the fourth or fifth just for the ruins alone. The issue is that there is more to do than time available today, yet I'm only 30 minutes from the park. I decide that if I make a start, I can cover any remaining sites on a future visit. This will make it a comfortable day and I decide to go for it.
Visit list in hand, I enter the old city from the west intending to cover the S.E. quarter which has alluded me before. Wat Wang Chai is the first ruin on my list, but I get distracted by a temple ruin on my right which I've never previously identified causing me to back-track.
Wat Worachet..... Wat Worachet is often confused with a monastery sharing a similar name that is located directly on the city island. Wat Worachet can still be classified as a restored ruin. The ancient monastery has many impressive structures, which have been restored by the Fine Arts Department. The primary structure is its large Khmer-style prang. The reappearance of the Khmer-style prang is often accredited to King Prasat Thong, who was influenced by the end of a Buddhist millennial year. Royal Chronicles mention Wat Worachet as early as 1563-64.
I still haven't reached Wat Wang Chai yet and I now enter the city island proper as more ruins appear adding to my list so justifying my decision to split my wish list into two parts. Along U-Thong Road, the first stop is Wat Phra Ngam, but there is no information about this ruin with only the base of the hall visible, but nearby is a restored chedi.
Wat Maha Saman..... Wat Maha Saman, or the Monastery of the Sunrise, is situated on the city island in the southwestern area of Ayutthaya in the Pratu Chai Sub-district, west of the Somdet Phra Sri Nakarin Park. It stands opposite the Siriyalai Palace and is part of the Ayutthaya Historical Park. I now finally reach Wat Wang Chai.
Wat Wang Chai..... Prince Thianracha, before ascending the throne as King Chakkraphat (1548-1569), had his residence in this area. On ascending the throne and having the Grand Palace as his new living place, he ordered his former estate to be transferred into a recitation hall and had an additional ordination hall built. The temple as such was given the name Wat Wang Chai, which could translate as the 'Monastery of the Palace of Victory'.
Wat Luang Chi Kut..... Next up, Wat Luang Chi Krut, or the Monastery of the Reverend Nun Krut, is also on the island in the northwestern area in the Pratu Chai Sub-district. The restored ruin lies on the edge of the Somdet Phra Sri Nakharin Park. The area was important at the time of Prince Thianracha, the later King Chakkraphat. The large ordination hall or ubosot and other monastic structures were built on the classical east-west axis. To the west side of the ordination hall is a viharn constructed following a north-south axis.
Wat Ubosot..... We now reach Khlong Tho Road and I note the temples in this area are ringed by klongs. They all would have been connected by wooden bridges which now have either collapsed completely or are in poor condition. At the intersection to the right, is Wat Ubosot, or the Monastery of the Ordination Hall. It is a restored temple ruin, but the exact date of the temple's construction and historical information are unknown. The chedi features characteristics indicating its construction in the middle to late Ayutthaya period. The chedi is redented from its platform until the harmika. The high and redented square platform has a stairway on the south side, leading to the chedi which has a triple redented square base.
Wat Jao Prap..... Further to the right, is Wat Jao Prap. Wat Jao Phrap is a restored temple ruin situated near the mouth of Khlong Chakrai Yai and its watergate. Jao Phrap stands for 'Lord Conqueror'. At this temple there were at least two main sanctuaries. One consisted of a large bell-shaped chedi on an octagonal base with an ordination hall (ubosot), 20 metres by 40 metres, and several satellite chedis. Another sanctuary resembles a Thai Prasat on an elevated twelve rabbeted-angled platform, nearly identical to the one found at Wat Phra Si Sanphet and a direct descendant of the Greek-cross plan of a Khmer temple.
Wat Jao Prahm..... We now double back along the Khlong Tho Road past the intersection and locate Wat Jao Prahm and park up. Here, an elderly couple have set up a refreshment station from their van. This wouldn't be allowed in the UK where enterprise is an ugly word. It's amazing to just sit beside a khlong amidst such history. At Wat Jao Prahm, I can find no access bridge so must be content with taking photos from the road. Wat Jao Prahm, or the Monastery of the Brahman, is a restored ruin situated in the southwestern area of Ayutthaya's city island. The monastery is located along Khlong Chakra Yai. The prang (tower) with redented angles was made of brick and decorated with stucco, featuring construction work of the early Ayutthaya period (1351-1488). There is also evidence of an earlier restoration of the complex. The base of the prang was covered to be connected with the viharn in the late Ayutthaya period (1629-1767). The temple was seriously dilapidated and restored by the Fine Arts Department in the late 1900s.
Wat Som..... There is nothing else of significance to record here north of Wat Jao Prahm except that as we turn back, on the opposite side of the road is Wat Som. Wat Som is a small Buddhist temple east of Khlong Tho but no historical references as to its construction have been found so far. The restored ruin consists of the principal pagoda (prang), a viharn (prayer hall) and minor pagodas. The pagoda was built of brick and decorated with a lintel and stucco reliefs. Prangs of this type are from the early Ayutthaya Period, (14th/15th Century) and were derived from Khmer architecture. The best examples are at Wat Maha That (1374) and at Wat Ratchaburana (1424). Wat Som was registered by the Fine Arts Department on 17 August 1976. Details are from on-site information.
We now return to the intersection and return the way we came adding two more temples surrounded by klongs over which I can't cross.
Wat Chedi Yai..... Wat Chedi Yai (large chedi) has a later style pagoda with spire. Chedis of this type, as opposed to the earlier prangs having evolved into their own distinctive styles. The ruin is surrounded by moats on three sides, east, west, and south, and there is no bridge leading directly to it, but it can be accessed on the northern side. The large bell-shaped chedi was built in brick on a rectangular base. The chedi stands alone and it is unclear if other structures were ever present.
Wat Sangka Thae..... To the west and set back further than Wat Chedi Yai is Wat Sangka Thae. This ruin has been restored by The Fine Arts Department. In situ is the foundation of a viharn with a junk-shaped base, typical for the late Ayutthaya period (1629-1767), without any trace of a chedi. Three other monastic structures are also in the immediate vicinity: a viharn and an ubosot on the Wat Sangkha Tha site, and a bell or drum tower. A moat surrounds the whole complex. Only a path on its eastern side leads to the site.
I've now visited the majority of the ruins on my list which are clustered together in the south-west corner of the island. I always knew there was more to see in the historical park but quite how much surprises me. This is now a convenient time to call it a day, as all the other ruins on my list are outside the island across the Chao Phraya River. This sets up yet another visit. A look at the map reveals that the group of temples here in this part of the island is the furthest away from the railway station where so many tourists arrive and also where the more famous temples on the island can be found. I can report that there is no entrance fee at any of the temples listed. This is clearly for practical reasons. Day-visitors are unlikely to come to this section of the park when there is so much else to see. During weekdays you are likely to be the only visitor: Throughout my visit I saw only two foreigners on bicycles. It simply wouldn't be worthwhile to have a attendant at each location and you cannot close off a public road.
While this amazing little tour has ended, there is one more treat in store as I head towards Ayutthaya railway station arriving in time for a Rapid train from Ubon Ratchathani. Here I produce a video to add to the two I made earlier. We can now head back to Bangkok at a most reasonable hour then arrange something to take back for dinner and do some shopping for the days ahead.

Source: Visit and Online Sources