Maha Bucha Day, Sanam Luang, Bangkok
12 February 2025

Now back in Thailand for another long stay, I'm relieved to escape the dreary weather in the UK. Not fully recovered from my long flight, I get a chance to travel right into the city on what is an auspicious day for Thai Buddhists. Makha Bucha Day is one of the most revered Buddhist holidays, a festival celebrated on the full moon day of the third lunar month. To coincide with this holy day, this year marks the 50th anniversary of cultural ties with China in a display of friendship. Sanam Luang has been used to display a precious chedi brought from China since December and today Thais especially those with links to China are congregating at this park to pay homage on this important day for Thai/Chinese Buddhism.
There's no rush to head downtown as evening is the most popular time to be at Sanam Luang and we take lunch near the residence before heading off. It's expected to be slow-going heading right into the old city, but we arrive with enough time to find parking within the Sanam Luang grounds. It's here that I realize what the attraction is, as we walk over to a mondrop that is receiving a lot of attention. Inside a mondrop is the sacred chedi Phra Kheow Gaew and a procession by the faithful is underway. For many this the last chance to view the sacred chedi before it returns to China.
For me well, the last time I was here the mood was more somber following the death of the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX) in 2016. While today's event lacks the same grandeur, it is still well organised to handle large crowds with free water, toilets and medical facilities temporarily set up amidst rest areas. There are displays relating to the cordial relations between Thailand and China and a stand displaying and dispensing herbal medicines.
Sanam Luang is, of course, a huge park adjacent to the iconic Wat Phra Kaew and other important landmarks, but as we finish our tour, I wonder what comes next, as today's schedule is out of my hands.
With Katoon taking the lead, we wander across to Wat Maha That Yuvarat Rangsarit Ratchaworamahawihan. From Wikipedia, this temple is one of only six first-class royal temples of the Ratchaworamahawihan grade in Thailand. Its monks belong to the Mahā Nikāya. Built during the Ayutthaya period (1351–1767) before Bangkok was established, it was then known as Wat Salak. Soon after the city came into being as the capital of Siam, the temple became strategically situated between the newly built Grand Palace and Front Palace (residence of the vice-king). As a result, the temple was used for royal ceremonies and funerals.
Exploring the various halls is quite revealing while at the same time offering shade from a strong sun. So where to next, I wonder, but I do have a clue. It's now around 5 pm and a glorious sunset over the Chao Phraya River beckons and there is an ideal place to view it. However, it's over a kilometre away, but despite eager tuk-tuk drivers offering their sevices, Katoon is up for a walk and despite moderate discomfort, I will be too.
We now pass the Royal Thai Navy Club and the Ratchaworadit Pier (Tha Rat). This pier has been used for Royal Barges from the Royal Palace since the beginning of the Rattanakosin period in the 18th Century. It was called Phra Chanuan Nam (passageway to the river for the King and Royal Ladies of the palace). It's used to this day for the annual Royal Barge Ceremony which I was fortunate to witness in 2011. We continue along Maha That Road with Wat Phra Kaew on the left, reaching the pier at Tha Tien. This pier has separate platforms for The Chao Phraya Express Boats and the river crossing to Wat Arun, the latter a remarkable attraction in itself. It's at Tha Tien Pier we pause and wait for the sunset.
Witnessing the sunset from the east bank of the Chao Phraya is impressive at any location but here we can gaze across to the chedi of Wat Arun, also known as 'The Temple of Dawn'. However, as the sun sets, a remarkable transformation takes place as a combination of rays from the setting sun and the lighting turned on over the entire spire, creates an ever-changing photogenic experience which has to be witnessed over at least half an hour. I can see why Katoon has made the effort to be here today.
With sunset, comes the end of our little excursion today, the first of many, I hope. With no enthusiasm to walk back to Sanam Luang, we take bus 82 which drops off at the entrance to the car park. It's a great start to my long stay in Thailand and I can take from it the good exercise I manage after such inactivity inflicted by a dull winter in the UK.

Source: Wikipedia and Visit